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Replaced shattered glass heat barrier cover for oven. Do not over-tighten the screws or the glass will shatter. This is what happened after I cleaned it.
The glass barrier was easy to replace. All the glass was gone so it was just the metal frame that I had to take off. Then replace with the new one. It came with an attachment on the bottom that screwed into the oven then screwed on top with the handle. Very simple and easy. The only question I had after ordering the part was if I had to reattach the glass to the frame or if the new part already came with the frame. After the part came it, it was obvious.
Noticed oven was heating but upper element not coming on.
Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.
Pulled the heating elements out took the bowels out that didn’t fit, threw them away and replaced them with the perfectly fitting bowels from this site and replaced the heating elements.
Oven Door Light Switches Wrecked by Heat from Oven
Pull old switches out with pliers and replugged new switches. On main oven, plug casing was melted (wife left broiler on with oven door closed) so had to break apart old casing and individually plug the the wires into new switch and amazingly, it worked! Just gotta keep the door open when broiling.............
The range, (1988 Tappan) was givin to the church by one of our members. While using it, --after a period of time-- the wire burnt off to one of the burners. Since the couple gave us a brand new top for the stove that was still in the box, we decided to fix the stove up. Now, with new wiring to all four burners, new shiney drip pans and,,,,a new top, we have a very new looking stove for in our church kitchen. The parts I ordered from PartsSelect, came in just a few days of placing the order, This is one site that I have wrote down in my address book for any future parts to items we may need.
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
Switch had excess 'play', like my 68 ford F-100's steering wheel, and wouldn't turn off without 'jiggling' the knob.
Your instructions were spot on. I did have the switch installed 180 degrees out, so I installed it twice. Now I'm a professional. Also gave me opportunity to clean out years of goo in hard to get to places. Next cleaning will be much sooner, now that I know the ease of cover removal. P.S. Great service on delivery. I rec'd part the next day. Nice work guys.
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.