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the indicator light for burners broke and shorted agaist the back panel on range
This caused the burner switch cotacts to arc burning out the switches. It took 30 or 43 minutes to replace the switches and put the range back together. The bake element took 10 min. ti replace. Grandma has her range back and I am a happy grandpa!! Thanks for the help and we saved over $170.00 for the repairs. Jim Johnson
Removed four srews from bak of the oven so I could get to the timer. Then I unplugged the oven swapped out the wires put everything back together. Plug it back in and started the oven. Work great. Also you must remove the timer faceplate carefully or you will peel off the white.
I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.
The LR surface burner and the oven were inoperable.
After receiving the parts in only two days, I first turned off the circuit breaker. Then I pulled the stove out from the wall. I used the nutdriver to remove the upper rear panel. Using the screw driver I removed the defective clock timer and used a pocket knife to carefully remove the clock timer face. I positioned the clock timer face on the new clock timer and installed same in the stove panel. (I had made a list of the wires and their colors to insure the proper placement on the new clock timer). Installed the four screws and on to the burner switch. Two front panel screws removed and the defective burner switch was out. Installed the new burner switch, connected the wires, installed the two screws, pushed on the knob and I was ready to go. Re-installed the reap panel, pushed stove back in, turned on the circuit breaker and tested the burner and oven. All worked correctly. A very easy repair!
Originally I had anticipated a major problem requiring the removal of the back of the range and perhaps the necessity of employing the services of a repairman ($$!). Fortunately I waited for the arrival of the replacement element, which, upon inspection, was not configured to go through to the back of the range. What a relief!
The hardest part of the repair was finding the correct nutdriver (5/16"). Removal of the damaged element was simply backing out the two retaining screws inside the oven and pulling the element out far enough to expose the clips to the wire. Pulling them apart was easy enough, and then the element I disposed of immediately.
Reverse of removal of the old element was the installation of the new: Reconnect the clips to the element, push the wires back into the insulation, re-inserting the two retaining screws and tightening them gently.
The final step was to plug the range 220 cord into the outlet. Testing whether the element was functional was a breeze; the oven and the range elements worked perfectly.
Removed the backing, removed the old part and disconnected the wires (after taking a quick photo so we knew where to reconnect them on the new part). Removed clock/timer facing and placed on new part. Reconnected the wires to the new part and screwed it back in. Oven now works great without spending the $300 we were quoted by the repair man!!
The surface element quit working, when I tried to remove it, the element cracked.
Turn power off to the stove! Opened the oven door, removed 3 screws holding the top down. Lift the top up. (Take a picture first of where exactly the wires go and where the prongs go) I unplugged the 4 wires from the element. Use a screwdriver and pry the prongs through the metal brace. Remove the prongs from the old element because they are a separate part and don't come with a new element. If you wish to continue to use the stove, tape the ends of the wires up, because they will be hot when you turn any other burner on.
Turned off power to stove;removed baking racks , loosened Holden screws to pushon bake element removed old bake element,installed new pushon bake element.