CAV2000AWQ Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

Took the front panel off the washer with a screwdriver, tilted the washer back and propped it up with a paint can, unscrewed 2 nuts & bolts, disconnected the electric to the motor and lifted out, put the new motor in place & secured it with the nuts & bolts, reconnected the electric and re-installed the front panel of the machine and I was done.

very easy repair, acess from the back, just a 1/2 dozen screws to change

Simply followed the instructions on the video provided and the repair was a breeze - quite impressive service!

I replaced the water level switch by taking loose the five screws on the back of the control panel, The clamp on the clear hose, and the two screws which went through the Wtr. lvl. switch. I also moved the wires from the old switch to the new, one at a time. This didn't fix my problem so i replaced the Water valve on the bottom-rear of the machine by removing the screw, the two hoses and the four wires. I removed these one at a time, moving the wires directly from the old valve and attaching them to the new valve.This fixed my problem good as new.

Removed and placed new one in 15 minutes. Thank You so much for the help

Sure enough, it was the Drain Pump. Replacing the drain pump itself was a piece of cake, even though mine was located at the BACK of the unit, bot the front like the instructional video. The tough (or at least time consuming) process was emptying the washer of all the standing water before the problem could be properly diagnosed and the repair completed. Needless to say, a ShopVac was the solution for the main tub, although there is still a bunch of water left under the main tub, in the hoses and even in the broken Drain Pump. Have lots of towels and a small bucket on hand - and someone to help empty the bucket while you're crouched behind the washer by the wall! :) Other than that, replacing the actual part is easy, and replacing the belt is easier once the new working (rotating) drain pump is in place.

placed washer on front exposing bottom of machine. removed clip holding pulley in place with needle nose pliers. The old parts slid off transmission shaft easily. I set these aside in order of removal. The replacement parts were not exact matches to OEM parts replacement bearing was heavier duty and thicker there were washers in the kit that would not even slid onto transmission shaft,replacement pulley and cam were exact replacements for OEM. I replaced the bearing and thrust washer and then used a combination of new and old washers to build the assembly back to the original length so the retaining clip would hold assembly firmly in place.The instructions key point was that the final height had to bring the pulley back to the original height for a snug fit with retaining clip. Once I realized this the extra parts in the kit were less worrisome.

I replaced both the belt (PS2018741) and water pump (PS2347193)on my Maytag Washer MAVT446AWW. I replaced the belt and water pump at the same time because my machine was making a pretty loud knocking noise (like a belt was flapping loose -- but the old belt was not broken. I used the instructions in the PartSelect.com video and installation was pretty easy. Both the new belt and water pump work fine. BUT the knocking noise in the wash cycle is still there. Does anyone have a suggestion on what I can check next with regard to this problem? Thanks

Easy fix. I pulled the washer out from the wall and leaned the top back to the wall. I then removed the belt from the bottom. I set the washer back on all fours and slide it around so I could get to the back water pump access panel. Using a nut driver, I removed the screws from the panel, then I removed the panel. I could now see the water pump. With a pair of pliers I removed the two hose clamps, and removed the end of the hose's from the pump. Then with a socket wrench I removed the three screws holding the pump down and removed the pump. In reverse order I put it back together. It works fine and saved me a lot of money from happened to buy a new washer. Thanks PartSelect.

Just as shown in video on website

follow the video on snubber ring replacement an use 1/2 inch washers keep the tub springs from collapsing then it is very easy to remove them make sure to tilt the tube assembly an un hook start to finish under 1 hour

I did it just like a video was showing. This was really good instructional video.

Tilt washer back and pop belt on bottom of washer. Use putty knife to open top of washer 2 clips 2 inches in from both sides. Use racket to open and remove front panel of washer. use racket to remove 3 screws that hold pump to base of washer. pliers to remove clamps for intake and output hoses. use small bucket to catch water in hoses and pump. Replace pump unit, put screws in, put pump clamps on, put front panel back on , snap down top of unit, put belt back on pulleys and your done.

The video on PartSelect.com regarding replacing the washer machines drain pump with pulley was extremely helpful. By following the simple instructions as shown in the video, I was successful in replacing my washing machines pump in less than an hour, and saved myself the labor costs a repairman would have charged me for a really simple and easy repair job. I was also extremely happy and impressed with PartSelect.com. The price I paid for the part was very competitive and arrived within 3 days. I was very glad to see the pump and pulley assembly was a Whirlpool factory certified part and not a knock-off or reconditioned part.

I followed write ups on this web site and the job was straight forward. As far as the washer brake rotor I did not need to replace it. After removing the six screws that cover the assembly I noticed some rust and dirt so cleaned it with degreaser and reassembled it. I have no loud screeching sounds when the spin cycle comes to an end. As always PartSelect did a great job getting the correct parts to me with in a few days, thanks.