BLRT86TEWA Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed 2 hex screws & old hinge, placed new hinge on cabinet & found that it didn't fit; one hole was about 1/8" off. Had to drill a new hole in cabinet top in order to attach new hinge. Hinge works fine now. I'm glad to find the hinge is metal; original one was plastic.

Just slid the new one into place.

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

Pulled the old one off, pressed new one into groove on door. First time it really was as easy as the instructions on line said.

Followed Internet video instructions for both parts. Two suggestions: Forget the heat shrink tubing and use electrical tape instead, tubing is short in length and difficult to use unless you have a correct heat gun. Secondly, my timer didn't click twice but due to instructions I could determine that the timing was correct in the operation after the first click. This method could be explained as well as when to start it in connection with usage to be the most efficient in temperature and operation.

I watched the video online where it described the troubleshooting tips for this type of symptom. So I knew exactly what the problem was which is the defrost timer. After the part came in I just unscrewed (4 screws) the box which houses the thermostat and the defrost timer from top ceiling of the refrigerator section. Then I just unscrewed and unhooked the old defrost timer and replaced it with the new one. After finishing the installation I turned the fridge on. At first nothing happened. So I turned the dial on the defrost timer with a flathead screw until it clicked and the fridge came alive. I waited for an hour or so. The cooling cycle completed and the fridge stopped as expected. When I opened the door I noticed the interior is much colder than before and right after closing the door the fridge hummed back into life again. So I know my fridge is working again. Thanks to PartSelect for providing the right part for my refrigerator. I will definitely buy from them again if anything goes wrong.

I removed the four bolts holding the light switch and temp knob with a nut driver, unplugged the unit and moved it to the table top. I removed the switch and replaced it with a new one. I plugged the unit back in and drove the four screws in with a nut driver and the light now comes on when I open the door. Real simple!

pulled out broken ones and replaced with new ones

I order defrost timer then replaced it but it seemed doesn't work. I order defrost thermostat again then it worked fine until now. Thanks. Part selects.

I hesitate to say anything since I did exactly what their video told me to do, and it fixed the problem. Couldn't be happier. Was positive I was looking at 1000$ for a new fridge. Love being able to fix it by installing 15$ part myself. Thanks guys.

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

First of all I am 78YO, retired. Handy but NOT a handyman. There were two parts to replace. The Defrost Timer was very very easy and went just like the video. 20 minutes at the most. No surprises with only the most basic tools. The Defrost Thermostat was a little trickier. Took about 1 1/2 hours. The Thermostat disconnect plug was not like the video and was stuck hard. Had to use two needle nose pliers to finally get it apart. The rest went OK. The shrink seals were way too large for the job and my Hair Dryer was not able to shrink them enough for a good seal. Used a much smaller shrink seal that a friend had and it worked great. Suggest they use a smaller shrink that works with a hair dryer instead off the blow gun in the video. Wrapped the connection with electrical tape as others have suggested in addition to the Shrink Seal. Went together easy and am very very happy camper. Saved $295 from the Sears Repair Estimate. Dave

It is easier to remove the door, put towels over the goods in the freezer and put the door on a flat surface. Pry up the old gasket gently; it just snaps in, so don't worry. Snap in the new gasket, screw the door back on, and you're set to go. We were scared at first, but it's really a simple operation.

Removed old bin and slid in new bin. It was easily ordered (great online pics) and came in 2 days.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.