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Hole in Drain Hose
I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.
After turning on the machine set to the spin cycle and acertaining that the problem was not a switch or the motor the lower cover was removed (Two sheet metal hex head screws)with appropriate socket. The failure of the belt was self-evident, having sprayed itself in granuals, the belt itself having parted with easy removal. A search of the internet produced the order for drive belt, which arrived in a timely manner trough Fedex.
Replacing the belt was the most labor intensive part of the process. No mirror being available a CD was placed in the base of the machine in order to view what fasteners (Three torx head) fasened the pump to the motor assembly. Removal of the pump was necessary in order to replace the belt.
The removal of the fasteners required that three holes (120* angular spacing, 1/2" diameter, located on the pump fastener bosses) be drilled in the machine base in order to remove and replace. This required setting the machine on its side. (Tell the engineers to put an inspection plate there in order to negate having to drill the holes. Thankx.) Pump assembly was lowered off driveshaft and belt replaced. Tensioner set on belt after pump assembly fit to driveshaft and torx fasteners replaced and tightened. Machine powered up, checked for function. In use. Lower cover replaced. I'll be using your buisness for parts again, no doubt.
simple as removing front panel from washer held on by two screws and the hose was right their. Took a few minutes to disconnect it from the pump and pull it out through the rear, then feed the replacement in and reverse the process. Piece of cake. Thank you.
Screw broke lose in agitator from drive bell stripped (plastic) for transmission gear. Received new Drive Bell and had to lightly cut out old from Agitator housing with saws all, cleaned years of soap build up on steel spline with wire grinder, lubed the Drive Bell inter and pounded on to spline gear with rubber mallet, I thought a bit too much force but what the heck I landed to the same bearing point as before. Work Out Great.
unbalanced tub. 2 of the tub suspension springs had rusted out and broken.
Remove front cover. Install springs. The springs are very tight. You might need another person to push and rotate the tub while you pull on the spring to get it installed in the holes. If you need to replace the springs that are in the back of the unit, you will need to disassemble more of the washer.
Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.
Removed old hose by sqeezing clamps and sliding off of fittings. Placed clamps on new hose. Slid hose on fittings. Repositioned clamps over end of hose. Job done.
We promptly received the part and easily installed it with no tools. We had an excellent experience. We found the old fabric softener dispenser after installing the new one. Now, we have two.
Remove 3 screws on Washer control top. Then 3 screws holding clear cover and removed. Remove 3 phillips screws holding face of panel on and tilted panel to get at wires. Marked the wire colors on eace of 4 terminals and removed them. Used plires to push the top on the switch near the knob and turned the switch counterclockwise. When the lugs lined up the switch slid out the back. Just reversed the above to reinstall following the proper colors on the wires to reinstall. Washer works fine now.
Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.
