ATF6000ES1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

I opening that top from the rear and saw the same part order plugged in then new part attached it properly and then was done.

easy repair. I went to the back of the washer and removed the two(?) screws that held the top panel on. Then moved to the front of the washer and unscrewed the two screws in the door frame holding the lock assembly. Pulled it up and out from the top of the washer and disconnected the three wire connections. Then I just reversed the process with the new part. It all worked great. This website rocks...
Phil
Jax, FL

Very simple hardly worth writing about.

What was not mentioned in the instructions was that the right side pin can not be removed very easilly since there is a large metal box that is mounted directly behind the pin which keeps it from being removed without great effort and potential. I was able to remove the pin without destroying it but it would never go back in the same way because it is impossable to line up the schock, bushing and hole so I installed the pin from the front side and I will take my chances as to how long it lasts. machine seems to be running fine. Thanks

well i took the dryer off the top took, the 6 screws out that keep the top then took the soap tray out super easy then there was like 5 screws that keep the controls of the washer because the control board is behind it then just did on wire plug at a time the wires are long enuff thank god you do have to move some light things just some clear things but is so super easy the thing that the knob goes on is kind hard to get off but I just pushed it out from the back and thats it done less than 15 min and i took the dryer off the top and put it back on alone super easy anyone could do it cakes and pies

I followed the great instructions provided on the site and had the old broken struts out in no time. The new ones went in without a hitch and the time it took me to unscrew and rescrew in the back of the machine was longer than the time it took me to replace the broken parts.

Tilted the washer back to take the 2 screws off the bottom to remove bottom plate. Took the 2 nut screws from the bottom of the face plate so that the front of the washer would pull slightly out from the bottom. Removed the 2 screws from the door stricker plate which allowed the door lock assembly to come out through the side of the washer. Unplugged 3 plugs, plugged the new switch in and slid it back into place, put the 2 screws back in to hold it. Reattached the front and the bottom plate. And bingo done. It worked and saved us about $245.00. Very happy!!!

After getting a quote for $140 for a repair, I decided to try ordering online and hope for the best. I am delighted to say it was incredibly easy! All I had to do was remove the broken valve by unscrewing the water hoses with a wrench and remove two screws that held the valve on with a screw driver. Next, I popped in the new piece, replaced the screws with the screwdriver and attached the hoses, then tightened them with the wrench. Very easy! 10 minutes total.

Took off the front, and put a come along to rafters in garage to lift tub.
Replaced shock asborers, waited for spring kit to be delivered, replacing all.
Still isn't working need to check wiring to some compoments to see if a wire is broken.
Hope to have it washing soon

It took more time to remove the screws on the back panel..
remove back panel for better access..
remove speed access box on lower left side ( 2 screws) to get access to nylon pegs, squeeze down on tabs and pull out . the little tabs are on the oppsite side of the split nylon...
Replace shocks and nylon pegs..
reattach speed access box.
put the back on.....
easy job, the new shocks are part metal, make sure the metal side of shocks go towards the tub...

I had read the instructions and suggestions on the site. The product arrived with a good set of instructions. I used the deep socket to push in the "catch" on the pins. Once the catch is depressed I pulled and twisted a bit to get the pins out. After I pulled both broken shocks out I replaced them as instructed. I did use a long wooden dowel to get the pins all the way in. Read the instructions and follow what they tell you and it'll be done in under 15 min.

Followed the kit instructions to the letter. working around tight clearences was really the only thing to slow me down. The other posts tell the rest of the story better than I can.

Disconnected hoses, unplugged, took off top and back of washer. Removed the white plastic thingys that retained the broken shock absorbers. Installed the new ones, using a hammer and 1/2" copper pipe section to place white plastic thingys. Put back, top on. Reconnected hoses, plugged in. Presto!

My washer was leaking a bit on the left side, apparently from the place water enters from filler. I spent a bit of time inspecting that side of the thing and my jaw dropped when I finally saw the other side of the washer, the upper shock was broken off and the thing was not connected.

I got my parts fast and removing the pins was a bit troublesome but some from access standpoint, but it wasn't hard - just took some extra effort and prying from the head side. Seems to run better with new shocks and no more leaking so far.

I removed the bottom front panel ( 2 screws) and about 8- 10 inches back were the shock absorbers...the one on the left was easiest nothing in way I squeezed the locking tab and pushed the pin thru to remove the shock absorber...on the right side was a little tricky but got my arm round the drain hose and small pump and pushed that pin thru as well...installed new shocks and was good to go...I did call a local repair business here in belleview florida was told the shocks themselves would cost 37.00 for the pair and about 150 - 175 in labor...I paid 22.00 from parts select and did my own labor thanks for all the help...les