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Light socket melted around bulb
After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.
I removed the cover, used a multimeter to test the compressor circuit, and found the compressor start relay to be defective. Ordered a new one and installed it when it arrived.
Drip pan had rusted & was leaking water on the floor
The BIG problem was getting the old drip pan off. The bolt on top of the compressor was too long to allow the removal of the old drip pan. I removed the old drip pan by cutting most of it away with tin shears then cutting the remaining part of the pan around the bolt with a hack saw (taking care not to damage freon lines and raising the pan above the threads of the bolt so as not to damage the threads). I still had to cut half the bolt away with a hack saw by replacing the nut and cutting a third of the bolt away (above the nut), so the new pan would fit. Putting the new pan on was a breeze after that. It may be easier to just cut the bolt off altogether on top of the compressor and use the wire clips per the instructions supplied with the kit to install the new one.
Removed the cowling with a square drive screw driver, removed the spring clip from the cover of the compressor controls with a screw driver, pulled off the old compressor start relay and replaced it with the new part. Since other problems could have caused the compressor to short cycle this was a "replace the part and hope it would work" since that would be the most common reason and it was not a very expensive part.
Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.
After the refrigerator stopped cooling, we determined that the problem was in the compressor area. we used a screwdriver to get the cover off and then vice grips to get the actual pieces out (start relay & overload)--they broke, but they were already broken). We went to the Home Depot site to purchase the parts, but found PartSelect to be much less expensive. Put the parts in when they came a few days later and it worked! thank you PartSelect!
Freezer would not run ... replace the compressor start relay which fixed the problem
Pulled out the freezer. Unplugged. No freezer back cover was there. The compressor start relay was in a plastic encasement attached to the compressor - wires led me to it. Removed the solid metal spring with a screwdriver and removed the plastic cover. Tried to pull out the defective relay but the freezer was so old I needed a pliers to remove it. When I put pressure on the old relay with the pliers the relay broke and came off in pieces. I then removed the wires from the broken parts and put them on the new relay. I pushed the new relay onto the 2 pins then replaced the cover and spring. After plugging the freezer in the problem was fixed.
Was really basic, simply slide off the old caps, slide on the new ones, put the shelf back where it goes, push down lightly so as to not snap the new caps, and viola, complete. No more than 2 minutes worth of work. Great part at a great price, shipping was more than the part itself so I bought 2 of each. Only problem I ran into was that I ordered the top shelf caps instead of the bottom the first time, so I had to reorder.
Door shelf retainer bar end caps broke off at insertion point.
Removed plastic male parts. Inserted new end caps onto old retainer bar. Inserted all into door. A snap, but I didn't need to order the retainer bar after all - the old one was the perfect fit and the one I ordered was way too long. I returned the new retainer bar, and the shipping was more expensive than the part.
The refrigerator in my new apartment was missing the brackets that hold the bars so that things don't fall off of the door shelves. It was missing several off of the refrigerator door and one off of the freezer door.
I just had to make certain I had the correct end-cap for the correct side. I placed the two little curved pieces into the slots and applied some downward pressure (gently) onto the end-cap till I heard it "snap" into place. You could then see that it was held in place securely. I did first one side, then fed the bar into it, then placed the other side onto the the bar; inserted the end-cap and secured it in place.
HINT: I myself mistakingly ordered the same exact end-cap for both the freezer and the fridge doors. I was unaware (I failed to check), that the end-caps for the freezer are not the same end-caps as the ones for the fridge door. My refrigerator uses three different end-cap sizes; one size for the actual fridge door and two additional different sizes for the freezer door. Not wanting to exchange it, I used the one I ordered anyway. It still works, but makes the bar protrude into the freezer more than it would have, had I ordered the correct size.
SPECIAL NOTE: This company got the correctly ordered products to me within a couple of days. I would definitely order from them again without hesitation. I am very happy with the product and service. Smooth.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
unplug power from ref removed old light socket only difference wired a little different checked new socket compaired to old checked terminal ends small big looked at wires big,little plugged up put in new light blub plugged ref power back on work power off pushed socket bac in power on works