ARTE105BW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

initial research suggested that relay is common failure point -opened back panel and found that relay was "truly smoked" - black soot came out when I removed it and shook it also checked that the compressor itself wasnt damaged using the resistance check across pins and also from pin to outer cover - determined that the compressor seemed OK and fault likely isolated to relay - - overload cap seemed to be ok - but decided to replace entire unit (relay and cap) - ordered on partselect.com - video showing how easy repair was very helpful - replaced it - and DONE!

You just take the back panel off (8 screws with hex heads), disconnect one wire harness, pull off the relay, and push on the new one. Easy peasy. Getting the wires off was the only tricky part, they clip in place so you have to pry the retaining clip loose. Unfortunately, it turns out our compressor is shot so replacing the relay did not fix the problem.

My 8 year old Maytag side-by-side started having a buzzing sound coming from the compressor area that lasted around 8 to 10 seconds which was followed by a "click" sound. It would repeat every 3 minutes or so. From what I read, the Overload/Relay with Start Capacitor was the likely culprit. I got it replaced tonight but unfortunately, the same problem is occurring. The downside is I likely have a bad compressor (not worth replacing after cost of parts and labor) and wasted $60 on the Overload/Relay with Start Capacitor. Partselect's service though I would say is top notch. I received the part within two days of placing the order and my order confirmation email even had a link to a youtube video detailing the installation. That was very helpful. I just wish I was looking at a $60 fix vs a grand for a new fridge! Oh well, live and learn....and no more Maytag.

tested that water got to inlet valve, but not past it. the rod inside the pump was separated from the plunger. i ordered part. i was quite impressed that i got part within two days. replaced valve. ice maker works.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

The repair was simple. It was a matter of unpluging the old relay and then pluging in the new one. I almost bought a new refrigerator but after doing alittle reading on this web sight and finding out the most common reason for having the problem I was having I decided to order the relay. It was the problem...$ 70.00 -v- $1400.00. I'm HAPPY !

The Amana You Tube video explained and demonstrated how to isolate the problem. After finding the problem I ordered the Water Valve on a Sunday and I installed it Tuesday morning in about ten minutes.

I removed the cover panel. There is a clip that holds the relay and capacitor to the pump. Use a screwdriver to pry it off. Unplug the relay. The capacitor is plugged into the relay and they come together which was a surprise, I thought I only ordered the relay. Unplug a cable from the relay. Insert that cable into the new relay and plug it into the compressor. Reattach the clip. One be important instruction. Unplug the refrigerator for at least 8 hours before installation to allow the compressor to cool down. I tried first without allowing the compressor to cool and it did not work. After letting it cool I tried again and it worked like charm. Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged when doing the repair

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

I pulled the frige out, took off the cover from the bottom with a nut driver. Took off the safety clip then pulled the plug out from the relay then the relay came out. Replaced the part and reinstalled the same way. This was really easy and fast.

Removed and replaced part...

After unplugging the refrigerator, I removed the lower rear access panel that exposed the condenser and the overload/relay start capacitor with 1/4" nut driver (6 total). Next, I unplugged the wire harness and spring loaded keeper with needle nose pliers. Then I pulled the overload/relay start capacitor out of the 3 pronged male receptor located on the side of the condenser and plugged in the new one. Replaced the keeper, plugged the harness back in, and replaced the panel. Very easy fix.