ARGS7650WW (P1130752NWW) Amana Range - Instructions

It was Tuesday before thanksgiving, panic as there was a big bird looking for a hot stove,
unplug stove from its electrical supply
turn off gas, not necessary but sometimes it's good to be safe.
inside oven remove bottom splash cover "pull towards you and lift out, then remove flame pan, one nut in the center, remove and lift out flame pan.
The oven ignitor was to the left of the burner, with 3 philips screws one attached to buner and the other two to the back of the stove, remove all three.
The ignitor is now loose,
remove bottom drawer and behind is a plate attched to the back of the stove with two screw, the screws are facing you as you look in where the drawer was, remove screws and plate to access the plug attatching the ignitor to its power supply .
go back to the oven and remove ignitor.
install new, feed plug through back, and put it all back together.
"ignitor very delicate, handle with care"
I am also not the biggest of guys and it can be awkward getting in the drawer space as you need both hands to plug it back in, so tilting the stove back, keeping safety in your thoughts at all times, would be a must for most people.

My repairman told me it was probably the ignitor (even though the old one sitll glowed), but after weeks of waiting for his back-ordered part, I decided to try it myself - found it on PartSelect and had it 3 days later. Turned off the power to the oven. Slid out the 2 racks, and the cover below the racks. Unscrewed 1 nut and removed the V shaped metal plate that distributes the heat. Under that removed 3 screws that hold the ignitor clip in place and got the igniter out of the clip. I couldn't get to the plug on the other end of the ignitor until I took out the oven drawer and removed 2 screws holding a metal cover in place below the oven. Reversed the whole process being careful with the end of the new ignitor (I read it was fragile). The oven now heats up in 5 minutes and maintains temperature again!

I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled).

The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.

Remove the racks
remove one nut that holds the heat deflector
3 screws that hold the igniter
remove the drawer
remove 2 screws holding a heat shield in place.
unplug old igniter and reinstall

I removed the oven door by removing two screws, one above each hinge. With the door screws removed, position the door to the slightly open position and lift strength up to remove. Remove wire racks and the cover from the bottom of the oven. Remove the heat deflector which is held on with a single nut. Remove the screws that hold the cavity that houses the igniter and the burner. The igniter is held in place by a protective bracket that has to be reused. I slid the old igniter out of the protective bracket and then removed the cavity by allowing the burner and igniter to exit through an opening in the rear of the cavity. The drawer (broiler pan storage) had to be removed to remove the two screws to an access panel that allowed access to the igniter connector. After disconnecting the old igniter, I fished the new igniter connector through the back of the oven to connect it. I use masking tape to hold the access panel in place while reinserting and tightening the two screws. Replace the cavity that houses the igniter and burner. Slide the protective cover over the igniter. Realign and secure the burn and igniter assembly by reinserting and tightening the necessary screws. Reinserting and tighten the screws around the igniter/burner cavity. Replace the heat deflector by tightening the nut. Replace the cover that covers the bottom of the oven and the wire racks. Reinsert the drawer. Slide the door over the hinges and reinsert and tighten the two screws.

Disconect power source; Remove oven racks, remove storage drawer under oven; remove floor of oven, remove flame deflector, remove three screws holding igniter cage and unplug faulty igniter. Reverse all steps for reassembly.

Daughter and family came to visit Gramps for the weekend; Saturday morning, arose and opened a couple of cans of grand buscuits. Set aside to let rise then turned oven on to preheat. Came back later and oven did not work. Stove top worked, broiler worked, but no oven. What to do, didn't want to waste dough; perhaps salvage for dumplings, no; make poorboy doughnuts, no; Aha, lets use the outside gas grill, never done it, worth the try, remember old camping days except using gas. Worked like a charm, crisis over. Now back to oven. Since everything worked except the oven burner problem could be in the igniter, or oven control. Removed covers to burner assembly, pulled igniter, checked for continuity across the two leads. No go. Wait, need to check oven control, placed voltmeter across incomming leads, turned oven controls on and had voltage. Conclusion, igniter bad. Also noticed a small rust hole in the burner tube next to igniter, not good. Went on-line to PartsSelect, entered make and model number. No model but gave choice close to model. Viewed pictures, found one that came close. Placed order. Parts came in a very short time. Matched new parts to old. perfect. Removed burner tube and installed new one, one screw, simple. Wire nut the incomming leads to igniter and install, three screws, simple. Turned oven on, igniter glows bright, gas comes on, good blue flame, no need to adjust air inlet vents on burner tube. Turned off oven, replaced covers, then turned on oven, baked cornbread and enjoyed. Thanks, back in business. Dave

We lived with the problem by using a long-reach butane torch lighter for three years after an appliance repairman told us the problem would be very costly to repair. Finally, we found the likely suspect when we happened onto PartSelect's website- the spark ignition module. The cost was just over $81 plus shipping. We ordered on Wednesday, it arrived on Friday by FedEx, and I installed it on Saturday morning. All the parts were included, the instructions were clear and complete, and, best of all, our range now works as it should. We couldn't be happier. Thanks, PartSelect.

Ceramic connectors were taken off the old igniter, pulled off old igniter and replaced in the same way the new igniter

I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC

Researched through this site to find part numbers and names. Youtubed it to see how to install the part. Ordered the exact part via this site and received it in only a day or two. Installed it in less than 15 minutes and the oven works amazing. It gets up to temp quickly and holds temp better than it has in years. Very satisfied!

Removed old ignightor and installed new one

I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.