ALW891SAW (PALW891SAW) Amana Washer - Instructions

1) removed front panels from washing machine
2) removed water pump. Three small torque bit screws and (2) hoses.
3) removed motor (because I realized that the belt tensioner also needed work as it was siezed) removed (4) bolts and an electical connector.
4) repaired tensioner by taking apart and cleaning bearing surface. Needed snap ring plyers to take apart.
5) put motor back in
6) replaced belt
7) put water pump back on
8) intalled front panels back on washer

First, I printed all the diagrams on the Partselect site so I would know how things went together.

I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the washer tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.

The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.

All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.

After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.

Thanks for very quick delivery and detailed instructions found on this site. I followed the step-by-step instructions and everything went as planned with one exception, I installed the V-belt in a wrong way after replacing the pump. Next time, I will mark or remember the way belt sits between the motor and the pump.
I found a small sock in the pump. Pump itself was still good (I think), but I installed new one along with new belt (just in case).

Removed front panel; loosened hose clamp at pump; removed existing drain hose. Easy part.
Installed new hose at pump and tightened hose clamp. Somewhat difficult.
1. Your hose design should be solid flexible rubber hose instead of corrugated type. Had rough time snaking hose to the pump.
2. Your future designs should have rubber hose or hard piping to the exit hole on the back panel and terminated in a male fitting, then connect flexible hose from fitting to drain line. Similar to "hot & cold " water connections.
3. For future customers- care should be taken installing the "black" portion ; it kinked on me 2 or 3 times because you have to keep rotating the entire hose to keep the "black" portion straight.

Unplugged washer and disconnected water lines and drain hose from wall. Removed the two Screws at bottom front panel and tilted lower portion out at bottom and removed panel. Removed screw on each side under to top panel, removed three phillps screws on top control box to tilt the top box forward and unplugged the wiring harness,unscrewed the ground wire, pulled off water level hose, disconnected switch power wire connections. Slid control forward and removed. Found broken spring and anchor slit rusted thru where spring attached to base. Cut a 1/2" strip of metal from a 2x4 metal strap and attached to bottom side of base with screws, set washer uprite and tilted top panel to attach springs to tub. Inserted spring at bottom and pulled spring into slit on side of tub with a heavy gauge bent wire, bent like the top of springs being replaced. Reconnecd wiring to to panel box & Hose, srewed in place at top, reattached screws uhder top front left and right and inserted front panel at top and attached two front screws at bottom. Reattached hoses and plugged in unit. checked for spin, o.k.

I tipped the tub towards the area where the springs were and connected them. They broke because that particulary area seemed to get moisture and they rusted. Truthfully, although the machine still works, its last days are just down the road.

I had to take the entire tub assembly from the machine to replace the milkstool which had been crushed by the weight of over-loading the washer. It took about 2 & 1/2 hours to complete the job, but it was well worth the effort to save the expense of replacing the appliance. Part Select provide the right part as promised and saved me a lot of money. Thank you for your service.

Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the water. Located on the back of the machine there are 2-5/16 "screws that hold the top secure, removing these screws gave me access to the water mixing valve. One 1/4 " screw holds the valve in place to the back of the machine, removing this screw alowed me to remove the valve from the back of the washer. Then disconnecting the water lines and electrical lines from the valve assembly in my hand was easy, with a 5/16"nut driver for the water line hose under the washer lid. The electrical lines just un plug. Repeating these steps in reverse made this job easy. After fixing our washing machine we could not believe how much faster the tub filled up. This will probably save us some on electricity, it use to take about 20 minutes to fill the tank now its filling up in about 5 minutes. Thank you so much for your timely delivery and affordable pricing. I will recommend Parts Select to my family and friends for there future needs! Thank You Anthony

I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.

I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the motor. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!

took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.