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Water Inlet valve wouldn't work for cold water
Water inlet valve was different than the one shown on web photo. The hose supplied was the wrong size so I had to use the original old hose. Wire harness had to be modified since the electrodes were on opposite sides of the valve. Overall I was disappointed with the part and the service.
Screw broke lose in agitator from drive bell stripped (plastic) for transmission gear. Received new Drive Bell and had to lightly cut out old from Agitator housing with saws all, cleaned years of soap build up on steel spline with wire grinder, lubed the Drive Bell inter and pounded on to spline gear with rubber mallet, I thought a bit too much force but what the heck I landed to the same bearing point as before. Work Out Great.
checked for unbalanced load. still banging. removed lower front panel by removing 2 screws. then removed front top panel- 2 more screws. turned unit on spin cycle to see what was going on. this is dangerous as many moving parts are exposed, so keep everything clear. banging was the tensioner slamming back and forth. unpluged washer from outlet and felt along the belt to find part of the 'v' shaped balt had come part, leaving a gap in the "v". ordered part.when i got the part, i removed 4 larger bolts that held the motor, pully, and pump. i unplugged the wires for the motor, and removed the belt from the bsket side pulley assembly by slipping it off and under the shaft. i removed the torx screws that held the pump on the motor and removed the belt. PAY ATTENTION to how the belt was in between the pully and pump assembly or you will have to remove and redo it. reassemble the pump over the belt, pully, motor, and put the belt on the drum side pully before bolting it to the washing machine. it is fairly heavy and tight, so you might need help. this was not hard and you do not need to take apart the washer except for the two front panels and the motor assembly. i just pulled the unit away from the wall and tipped it back to access the inside. take your time and pay attention, and make sure it is not plugged into the wall and you should be fine.
I had to replace the tub,because it cracked when replacing the bearing and seal
I had no problem replacing the triple lip seal and bearing. I cracked the plastic tub, which after 10 years was very britle and cracked in two places ON THE SIDE. To remove the bearing I had to improvise a bearing removal tool using a puller I had on hand and a 1 lb metal coffee can. It worked great! You need to use some type of pulling device to remove the bearing without damaging the tub.
unbalanced tub. 2 of the tub suspension springs had rusted out and broken.
Remove front cover. Install springs. The springs are very tight. You might need another person to push and rotate the tub while you pull on the spring to get it installed in the holes. If you need to replace the springs that are in the back of the unit, you will need to disassemble more of the washer.
Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.
Removed and replaced mixing valve. Shut off hot & cold water supply to machine. Pull machine electric plug. Access back of machine. Remove water supply to machine. (Pliers) Be sure to keep some paper towels handy to pick up residual water. Remove screw that holds mixing valve mounting plate to machine. Pull plate away from machine. Undo hot and cold elect. connectors to valve. Remove water supply to valve. (Black hose-screwdriver.) Remove screw holding valve to mount plate. (Nut driver.) Install new valve onto mount plate. Reverse process used to remove valve. Test by turning on machine.
Replacing the spin belt is like the others have said, but I'll add a couple of cautions. Don't try to separate the driven pulley on the water pump from the pump shaft. Instead, separate the water pump from the driven pulley. And, make sure you know the routing of the belt for reassembly, because it has to go between the correct legs that support the water pump. Get it wrong and you'll have to start all over. I pulled the machine away from the wall by about 18" and put a block of wood under the front of the machine to raise only the front to 9" or 10" off the floor which made it easier to do the work. Try and take a digital photo of the belt routing from a couple of angles before beginning. Don't forget to route the belt around the tensioner pulley.
Removed front lower panel, removed 4 bolts holding motor, removed water hoses draining water into a pot, unplugged electrical connector on motor, removed motor, removed water pump from motor (torex bit), separated pump from motor. installed belt reassembled washer in reverse order. To my surprise, it worked and was easy.
Removed old hose by sqeezing clamps and sliding off of fittings. Placed clamps on new hose. Slid hose on fittings. Repositioned clamps over end of hose. Job done.
Basically you have to remove the drive motor and pump (in that order). This allows you to get the belt around the drive motor pully wheel. It took me a few tries to get the belt routed right. I assume that if you know what you are doing you can complete this in under an hour. It took me about 4 hours, though - cause I didn't know what I was doing at first. Hehe.
hotwater was coming out slow to fill the was tub of machine
removed both hot and cold fill lines and front of washer panel. removed screw holding mix valve plate t the back of the washer . Unpluged connections to mix valve and replaced valve. ( note removing the top of the washer is needed and can only be done by first removing the front by sliding a thin screw driver between the top and front panel to release the clips at the ends.)
