loud screeching noise, motor seized, long time to dry
disassembling took about ten minutes. found that lint needed to be cleaned out. idler lever pulley was locked up and the belt had worn the pulley down. guide felt pads were off the drum guides. motor seized up. studied videos and ordered parts for each problem. once parts arrived the total repair took a total of 45 minutes. saved $300-400, and did not have to buy a new dryer. dryer working better than it has in four or five years, heating up better and no noise. would recommend buying own parts and replacing. on a scale of 1-10, this is a 2. this is an electric dryer. hope this helps!
The dryer had been squeaking for at least 6 months when it finally became painfully loud and unacceptable
. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.
I watched the repair video and followed the instruction given to replace the belt. The instructions were easy to follow and to the point. The one thing that was not covered was to vacuum the interior prior to closing the dryer up.
The dryer was squealing, so I looked videos on how to take the dryer apart. After I got it apart, I spun the roller wheels, the motor, and the idler pulley, and only the idler pulley gave an indication that it was sticking or not spinning appropriately, so I ordered the part and replaced it. And sure enough, it was the problem after all!
The dryer was making a screeching noise due to a faulty Idler Lever and the dryer was not drying the clothes in sufficient time due to a bad belt.
Watched the videos first. Unplugged the dryer plug. lifted the top of the dryer and braced it. removed the front cover and bulkhead and disconnected the wires. Removed the drum and belt. removed the 2 screws to the motor plate to replace the idler pulley. installed the belt around the drum and inserted the drum. routed the belt around the idler pulley and checked for alignment and twists. reinstalled the bulkhead and the front cover. plugged the dryer cord back in and listened to a quiet dryer. The dryer also dried the clothes in one setting. Yahoo and saved a bunch of money fixing it myself. I recommend to anyone to watch the videos on site to diagnose dryer noises. You'll be amazed and save money doing it yourself.
We received the parts in two days. We installed the new lint duct assembly in about 30 minutes. We unplugged the dryer and lift ed the top of the dryer removed the front of dry we disconnected the wiring and then removed the damaged lint duct . Cleaned the lint off the dryer and replaced the new lint duct. screwed the front back on . Reconnected the wiring clips and put the top back on the dryer. The top of dryer had clips that slid the top back on. Plugged dryer in and it works great.
Drum did not turn on heavy loads, only light loads.
I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.
Viewed video on website, however did not match model but put me in the ball park for an overall view. Thank goodness I had the insight to order the pully with the belt. I believe the pully failed first causing the problem with the belt. Recommend replacing both any way while you have it apart.
I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.
