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Oven wouldn't heat
I removed the oven racks, the bottom of the stove and a v-shaped cover that was over the heating element. The old gas ignitor screwed off easily after I put W-D 40 on the nuts. I un ooked the old gas igniter and replaced it with the new one. The oven lit immediately after I replaced everything. I am very proud of my self, I feel like a femal Bob Villa. I almost bought a new range. Boy am I happy!
I first removed the screws inside the oven,let the tube that the flames come out of hang down,removed the screws from the igniter. Then I took the cover off the back of the stove and unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. I put all screws back and put every thing back in place and the oven has been heating up every since. Thank you parts select. My husband is a otr trucker and won't be home until the 20th of this month. One less item on his "honey do list".
There are two elements to look at, one on top (broil) and one on the bottom (bake). Same element but may have different connectors. Double check before ordering.
Installing new igniter was very easy. The problem I had was removing the screws. The range is 18 yrs old. The screws were stuck from yrs of use. Especially in the oven cover plate. I used w- d 40 it didn't work. I decided to take a 2" putty knife and push it under the screw head to release it and it worked. They came right out. The igniter screws were also difficult to get out. Once those were removed, I pulled the stove out, turned off the gas and the electrical plug, removed back plate unplugged the old igniter and connected the new one. Easy, peasy. Turned gas on etc. Tested the oven to be sure it worked. Turned oven off.Then put it all back the way it was. Done! The igniter install was simple and qiuck. The time problem was the screws.
Check and see if power is going to the ignitor. Do an amp draw test on the ignitor. The gas valve will not open if it won't draw the right amount of current. Sometimes it will glow but wont be pulling the right amount of juice. In my case it wasn't even glowing but it still looked okay. The mounting screws can break or strip upon removal if they are old. In my case I had to drill a hole, for a new screw, on the back one, and the front one tried to strip out. I might try a little heat next time before removing them. If no power is going to the ignitor when you turn on the oven it might be that the board has gone bad. The ignitor should draw close to 3 amps.
Very Simple, I recommend pulling the old gasket in sections, and popping the new gasket metal holders in the holes as you go. You can't mess it up. For the ends, I tucked them in using a pair of needle nose pliers, but any small slender tool, such as a thin screwdriver, will work.
Diagnosed the issue by removing the bottom panel of the oven. (two little screws) Once the panel was out I turned the oven on with the door open to see what was happening.
Noticed that the heating element wasn't lighting up in order for the gas to ignite. Unplugged the oven and removed the heating element. Two screws hold the heating element in place. Removed those. Then, there is a panel on the back of the oven with one screw to remove. Once panel is removed you have easy access to the heating element connecting electric plug. Disconnect this plug by simply pulling apart.
Then, I was able to go back to the inside of the oven and slowly pull the heating element with plug out. The heating element had the part number on it. My oven is a Maytag which, is made by Whirlpool.
Went online to Whirlpool PartSelect and ordered my part. The part came in two days. Installed my new part and plugged in my oven to test the part. Part worked perfectly. Unplugged the oven and finished the installation process.
Igniter failed (open circuit). Without the igniter properly working, the control board would not open the gas balance.
Removed the lower base pan of the oven by unscrewing two phillips head screws. I then had access to the old igniter and removed that by removing the mounting screws (2 Phillips head screws). Continuity test revealed an open circuit. I simply replaced the old part with the new part, reversed the process and the oven was ready for use in less than 10 minutes.
I took the door off, then took the bottom out removed two screws, unplugged the old igniter and installed the new one. I turned on the oven and tested the new igniter and then replaced the bottom and oven door.
Oven would not maintain temperature and not heat up correctly
Unplugged the Rang. Removed the oven door. Removed the lower cover for the Bottom heater. Removed the two screws that held the igniter to the burner. Went to back of oven to disconnect the igniter. removed the old igniter. Installed the new Igniter in the reverse order.
