AGM699W2 (PAGM699W2) Amana Dryer - Instructions

I looked at a couple of videos on U tube. Then ordered the parts ($43 total). First put in the High Limit thermostat (really a bimetal circuit brkr). Dryer tested good (that part was only about $7). But since I also ordered the Limit Thermostat (I think this just sets the temperature by regulating burner on time) I put that part in also and retested. All tests good. A repair house call costs $75 around here and that doesn't even include parts and maybe a revisit to install them. Simpler and cheaper for me to replace $43 total in parts. Dryers are simple devices. It ain't rocket science.

Removed two screws from front panel and lifted front panel away, Turned it to the left so I could keep the door switch connected. The dryer would heat when it was first started, but then the burner would go off and would not come back on. I ran the dryer with the front panel off and could see the igniter glow and light the burner, but after the burner cycled off, the igniter would come back on but the gas would not come back on. I could tell it wasn't the thermostat because the igniter would come on, so I knew it must be the gas valve, and therefore probably the coils. The instructions on the website said that the coils were frequently intermittent, so that seemed like the problem. I tried checking out the coil resistance with an ohmmeter to try to confirm that, but couldn't really tell anything that way. I ordered the replacement coils Tuesday night, selecting the cheapest shipping; they shipped on Wednesday, and were delivered on Thursday! Amazingly fast! Removed two screws from the clip that holds the coils in place, unplugged the old coils, swapped in the new coils, screwed the retaining clip back on. All done. Before I replaced the front panel, I watched to see that it operated correctly. I could see the burner cycle off, then after a bit, the igniter glowed, and then the gas came back on and lit, just like it should. Problem solved. Put the front panel back on, and that's all there was to it. Well, I did vacuum out some of the dust inside the cabinet while I had the cover off. Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new coils before I installed them to compare with the old ones. Couldn't see much difference.

follow Steve the repairman's instructions they were very good

I started with the process of elimination, based on the web site part failure percentage...so I started with the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse, without success. Next, I placed an order for the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part # PS334310. Which, are located behind the lower front panel

I knew that it have to be worn out roller drums or the idler pulley with bearing. So, I ordered both items. I watched the repair video to know how to do it. I installed the items and the sound disappeared

I did it just like the man in the video that was sent via e-mail by ParSelect,.

found thermal fuse and checked continuity had none so fuse was bad. ordered new one from parts select correct fuse came quickly installed new one and dryer works like new.

I opened the base door and took out the heater panel and checked with an electrical meter. The high thermal fuse was blown out. I replaced the fuse and run it for five minutes, it was blown out again. I checked wires and nothing was wrong. I replaced another fuse and ran only three loads, it was blown out again. I though that it was a sixteen years old machine, I replaced the whole new heater panel with a new High Limit Thermal Fuse and a new Limit Thermostat. It ran good for 5 minutes test. I will know when I run a few loads in this Friday 4/25/14.

replaced all above parts, everything seems fine now. Thank You.

Used the Parts Select video. I also replaced the drum belt which I had ordered earlier. Repair went exactly as described in video. Belt looked fine but replaced anyway. Rollers and glides needed replaced. (Hint: felt pads for glides had come unglued and fallen to bottom of dryer-this was probably the main problem as glides no longer had support). I reused the same felt pads and glued them to bottom of new glides with Goop. You need O ring compressor and expander for rollers. Drum belt was a little hard to thread at the belt tensioner and video was not real clear. If you use left hand around left side of motor to guide the belt and right hand around right side of motor to compress tensioner, it worked great.

When the dryer stopped working, I checked the two switches to see if they were good. The start button checked out OK but the switch on the door read bad. Ordered the part with the part number and put on when it arrived. Just a matter of disconnecting and reconnecting three wires. Very simple

Unplug appliance from power source. Started by simply using screwdriver or steel putty knife to snap up the top corners of the top section of the dryer. It swings open like the hood of a auto. Looked on the back side of the front panel and found small 5/16" bolts on either side. Removed these bolts and lifted up on the front panel to remove the panel. Slide panel out of the way far enough to access the coil kit on the lower front section of the dryer. (The wires going to the door control switch will allow this without unplugging.) May need a helper to hold the dryer drum up out of the way or prop it up as I did with a block of wood so you can easily unplug/re attach the coil wiring. There are two Phillips head screws that hold the coil keeper in place. Remove these two screws, unplug the two coils (front coil has a three connector plug and the one behind it has a two wore plug). the front coil has a small sleeve that I needed to transfer to the new coil in front. Inserted sleeve as it came out of the old coil, slid both coils back in place, replaced coil retainer being careful to line tabs on top of coils so that they lined up in the coil keeper. Replaced screws in coil keeper. Placed front panel back on being careful not to damage the felt liner that the drum spins on. Replaced the two bolts on the inner side of each corner of the front panel. Lowered the top panel and firmly pushed it back down so that the holders went in place. Plugged it up and it worked perfectly.

This repair is very simple. (1) remove the lint screen bracket on top - two phillips head screws. (2) Gently pry open the top of the dryer with a large flat head screwdriver. It hinges backward. (3) Remove the top two nuts on the front panel. Lift the panel upward off the lower brackets. The door wiring is still connected, so I just rotated the front panel to the side. The interior is now exposed. (4) Take the drum belt off the tensioner assembly and pull the drum out. (5) Remove the coil retention plate - two phillips screws. (6) Disconnect the old coils, install new coils. I started the dryer up while disassembled to ensure the new coils worked and the burner fired. But a word of caution ... don't run the burner long with the dryer apart, as it could overheat. After all of this, reverse the process. YouTube also has a couple good videos showing all of this visually. I have very average mechanical skills, and this was an easy job. Another word of caution: most of the metal surfaces inside the dryer have nice sharp edges. Invest in a good pair of gloves to avoid mincing your hands up.

First of all, Parts Select is a great service. By giving us an idea of what parts we needed we were able to buy them without a lot of expense. My son and I did this repair together, and it took us a long time. We found an excellent video for repair on the web, and then lost it and couldn't find it again. We had trouble even getting the dryer opened up. That is where a putty knife comes in handy. Be sure to find out how to open it; it will save you a lot of grief. It is supposed to be easy, but it wasn't. Still,it was great to get it fixed so inexpensively. I'll leave the "how I did it" part up to people who had an easier time, but no regrets that we did it. Parts select sent the parts right away.We ended up only using the coil kit.

the idler lever is what finally fixed the problem but i ending up changing out the belt drum rollers and the felt glide pads before i fixed what it was. truthfully though its not a bad thing replacing all the moving parts. the hardest part about the rollers was the removal of the snap rings i had a pair of snap ring pliers that just didnt seem to work all that great and i ended up taking a screwdriver to pry them open which i dont suggest but its what i had available. other than that the videos are spot on. not hard at all.