AGM339 Amana Dryer - Instructions

1)Pulled electrical connectors off each of two gas valve coils. 2)Removed two Phillips screws and removed coil retainer bracket. 3)Lifted off two old coils and replaced with two new coils. 4)Replaced coil retainer bracket and plugged back connector on each coil; total coil replacement time is less than two minutes. 5)Confirmed gas valve opens and gas ignites every time over a two day test period. 6)Re-installed door. Wife Happy. We spent under $20 for 'M' series new style coil kit; and the $7 shipping got it here in two days. What a deal! Terry Rahmer 8.24.2012

the repair was an easy fix, I removed the two screws from the brackets holding the coils, disconnect and removed them installed the new coils connected plugs turned on dryer and I got heat not bad at all thank you for the help

After researching the problem, I thought the solution would be to replace the two terminal coil valve, but wasn't 100% sure it wasn't the 3 terminal coil, so I bought both. the dryer is 13 years old so I thought it deserved new coils. My husband was away for the week and I had about 10 loads of laundry to do. I dreaded the thought of going to the laundromat, so I went ahead and ordered the parts, thinking I would call a handyman to install them once they arrived. However, I found a Youtube video showing exactly what I had to do and thought it looked easy enough. I unplugged the machine, removed the front hatch and the 2 small screws holding the coils in place. I unplugged the old coils, used a vacuum to remove the dust in the area and installed the new coils. I popped them back into place, screwed them in, replaced the hatch, plugged the machine in, and VOILA!!!! A dryer that heats!!!!

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

Initially diagnosed the failure mode as a faulty thermal fuse and when the fuse was replaced was encouraged to find the heat working...then it shut off again. After a period of time that the dryer was off the heat would come back on. After reviewing the site extensively I found a description of the failure mode similar to mine and determined to replace the 2-terminal & 3-terminal coils (kit is less expensive than either by itself). My older Whirlpool dryer needeed to have the top panel removed in order to get to the front panel screws and once the front panel was removed the coil assembly was pretty easy to identify. The retention "plate" was attached via screws that were a little tough to get to but an offset phillips screw driver did the trick. The coils were "keyed" in such a way that they would only insert one way to be properly oriented. So I've earned my appliance repair merit badge.

Removed the front of the dryer. Took out the drum. Now everything inside is easy to get to. You do not need to remove the top. Upon inspection we found that we also needed to replace both felts, teflon guides, drive belt, and both support rollers ans shafts. Basically we rebuilt the dryer. It's quiet now and working like new.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.

I removed the front lower panel and could access the parts easily. This model of dryer was a little tricky as to what needed to be removed to access the parts. It was easy to take off the flame sensor and the therminal gas valve and replace. I watched your video on changing these parts but it didn't help much as the model in your video was newer and the parts were not in the same location on my dryer. the top on my dryer could not be popped up it was held by screws accessed by working from the bottom panels up. It turned out I only needed to take off the bottom kick panel to replace the parts it needed. The dryer works fine and the information,you provided on your website about what parts cause this problem most of the time on this dryer helped me to order the correct parts.

First, I replaced the male end which was just two screws and simple replacement of pushing the fastener into the door frame. When finished I noticed the female end was damaged as well. Glad the female part came as well. This required taken off the front trim around the door (four screws - 2 each side) and then the door. The installing of the female end was easy with a little push. The damaged female end was already hanging out so easy to grab and remove. Otherwise I would have had to remove the front panel. Note You need to put the door trim back on before reattaching the door.

The gas would light briefly then go out so the clothes were never heated. I googled the problem and found your website and read a few blogs describing the problem, ordered the coils, popped them in and presto it worked.

This was real easy just slid the latch in front panel and attached to latch assembly to the door. The repair was about 45 seconds.

I replaced gas coils which in my case came as a set and that did the trick.

I started by taking the front of my dryer off and cleaned it out. Next i ran the dryer and watched the flame starter circut. The starter circut would work once and then not for a long time but i could see it was tring to light because the iginiter would glow white hot. I then searched online for my model number and found the part select web site. In a few minutes I found a dryer fault description that best fit what my dryer was doing. The part select site should me three parts it might be. I read about what the three parts did on the parts select site. Then by using the process of elimination, with the knowledge I had just learned, I narrowed my suspect parts down to one. The coil for the gas valve must be the problem. So I got my ohm meter and measured the coil resistance and I found that when the coil was room temp it had resistance. But it would get hot after one heat cycle and it would open up therefore causing the gas valve not to open......no heat! I ordered the part and it came in two days!!!! All fixed!

im a car mecanic it was easy

replaced idler puller and washers