AGM339 Amana Dryer - Instructions

Both washer and dryer always worked perfectly. Suddenly, dryer wasn’t drying laundry properly. Problem... no heat. Cheapest price I could find calling for appliance service was about $160 to replace coil set but no one would tell me this would fix the problem. This was after calling a number of repair firms and trying to get a somewhat close estimate of what my problem was and what the repair cost. Not knowing, I might have just paid the $160 but what turned me off was having a service call fee of anywhere from $50-$80 with no one willing to tell me what the problem might most likely be before coming out or give me an estimate over the phone other than a range of $160 - $275. I just did not want to have someone come out for $50 -$80 and tell me that I needed to spend $275 and still owe them the service call even if I did not agree.
Found diagnostic and repair instructions help on line. The diagnostic information indicated a high probability, roughly 50%, that replacing the coil set would solve the problem and found the coil set cost $19.21 plus shipping, so I ordered the coil kit for total of $26.70. Note... I am a 71 year old amateur never having worked as a repairman of any kind except for my own needs.
The repair itself took less than 30 minutes start to finish and was one of the most straight forward, glitch free, easy repairs I have ever done. This is a gas dryer but still uses 110 power so I unplugged the 110 power cord from outlet. Followed suggested guidance on opening the dryer cabinet from the front and presto, the coil set I needed to replace was immediately right in front with easy access. Removed 2 screws for the hold-down bracket, slipped off both coils, one at a time, removing the wiring connection for each coil and then reconnecting to each new coil before slipping each new coil back into place and reattaching the hold down bracket. Reinstalled the dryer door and cabinet front in reverse order from taking off... 4 screws total. Plugged in the 110 power cord and put in a damp load of freshly washed laundry. Presto... 30 minutes later... dry laundry. Note... could do the same repair again in half the time since I took it slow and careful 1st time and also took time to remove dust before completing repair. I like things to look like new inside and out and it did when I was done. $26.70 and good as new. Why I didn't spend $160 - $275 is pretty obvious now.

I first replaced the temperature sensor. That did not help and when doing investigation when thr drier was warm I found the vallve would open and close if I touched the coils

I just followed the intructions from the video on the website. That made the replacement easy.

Repair itself was not hard, Pop top, unscrew front panel and pull forward to get at the coils under the drum. --THIS IS THE KEY POINT i ENCOUNTERED: I tested the coils and the resistance was right according to the schematic. But still the flame would go out after while. --on a whim I pulled the front cover and tested the coils immediately after the flam wouldn't re-light.---When the coil got warm, it would open (no continuity). When it cooled down again the correct continuity would return. Replaced the coil and no more problem

Removed the 2 screws from the lower front cover and removed cover removed the 3 screws from the return air duct and removed duct removed the wires from the gas control coils and started dryer checked for voltage at the wires there was 120 volts present replaced both control coils and limit switch (replaced limit switch because they are a common problem) Happy wife Happy life

Removed two screws from front panel and lifted front panel away, Turned it to the left so I could keep the door switch connected. The dryer would heat when it was first started, but then the burner would go off and would not come back on. I ran the dryer with the front panel off and could see the igniter glow and light the burner, but after the burner cycled off, the igniter would come back on but the gas would not come back on. I could tell it wasn't the thermostat because the igniter would come on, so I knew it must be the gas valve, and therefore probably the coils. The instructions on the website said that the coils were frequently intermittent, so that seemed like the problem. I tried checking out the coil resistance with an ohmmeter to try to confirm that, but couldn't really tell anything that way. I ordered the replacement coils Tuesday night, selecting the cheapest shipping; they shipped on Wednesday, and were delivered on Thursday! Amazingly fast! Removed two screws from the clip that holds the coils in place, unplugged the old coils, swapped in the new coils, screwed the retaining clip back on. All done. Before I replaced the front panel, I watched to see that it operated correctly. I could see the burner cycle off, then after a bit, the igniter glowed, and then the gas came back on and lit, just like it should. Problem solved. Put the front panel back on, and that's all there was to it. Well, I did vacuum out some of the dust inside the cabinet while I had the cover off. Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new coils before I installed them to compare with the old ones. Couldn't see much difference.

follow Steve the repairman's instructions they were very good

I started with the process of elimination, based on the web site part failure percentage...so I started with the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse, without success. Next, I placed an order for the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part # PS334310. Which, are located behind the lower front panel

I did it just like the man in the video that was sent via e-mail by ParSelect,.

When the dryer stopped working, I checked the two switches to see if they were good. The start button checked out OK but the switch on the door read bad. Ordered the part with the part number and put on when it arrived. Just a matter of disconnecting and reconnecting three wires. Very simple

Unplug appliance from power source. Started by simply using screwdriver or steel putty knife to snap up the top corners of the top section of the dryer. It swings open like the hood of a auto. Looked on the back side of the front panel and found small 5/16" bolts on either side. Removed these bolts and lifted up on the front panel to remove the panel. Slide panel out of the way far enough to access the coil kit on the lower front section of the dryer. (The wires going to the door control switch will allow this without unplugging.) May need a helper to hold the dryer drum up out of the way or prop it up as I did with a block of wood so you can easily unplug/re attach the coil wiring. There are two Phillips head screws that hold the coil keeper in place. Remove these two screws, unplug the two coils (front coil has a three connector plug and the one behind it has a two wore plug). the front coil has a small sleeve that I needed to transfer to the new coil in front. Inserted sleeve as it came out of the old coil, slid both coils back in place, replaced coil retainer being careful to line tabs on top of coils so that they lined up in the coil keeper. Replaced screws in coil keeper. Placed front panel back on being careful not to damage the felt liner that the drum spins on. Replaced the two bolts on the inner side of each corner of the front panel. Lowered the top panel and firmly pushed it back down so that the holders went in place. Plugged it up and it worked perfectly.

This repair is very simple. (1) remove the lint screen bracket on top - two phillips head screws. (2) Gently pry open the top of the dryer with a large flat head screwdriver. It hinges backward. (3) Remove the top two nuts on the front panel. Lift the panel upward off the lower brackets. The door wiring is still connected, so I just rotated the front panel to the side. The interior is now exposed. (4) Take the drum belt off the tensioner assembly and pull the drum out. (5) Remove the coil retention plate - two phillips screws. (6) Disconnect the old coils, install new coils. I started the dryer up while disassembled to ensure the new coils worked and the burner fired. But a word of caution ... don't run the burner long with the dryer apart, as it could overheat. After all of this, reverse the process. YouTube also has a couple good videos showing all of this visually. I have very average mechanical skills, and this was an easy job. Another word of caution: most of the metal surfaces inside the dryer have nice sharp edges. Invest in a good pair of gloves to avoid mincing your hands up.

First of all, Parts Select is a great service. By giving us an idea of what parts we needed we were able to buy them without a lot of expense. My son and I did this repair together, and it took us a long time. We found an excellent video for repair on the web, and then lost it and couldn't find it again. We had trouble even getting the dryer opened up. That is where a putty knife comes in handy. Be sure to find out how to open it; it will save you a lot of grief. It is supposed to be easy, but it wasn't. Still,it was great to get it fixed so inexpensively. I'll leave the "how I did it" part up to people who had an easier time, but no regrets that we did it. Parts select sent the parts right away.We ended up only using the coil kit.

flame sensor was a little tricky since a wrench was necessary since there was no clearance buy pretty simple put back plug in started still no heat after 6 min running time . now it coil kit so simple was surprised change out both and put cover back on plug in started and been drying ever since thanks for all your help

Followed videos seen on the internet for my dryer's repair. Went exactly as shown.