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top burners would not light
Removed the top, 4 screws and pulled the contact wires off. Replaced the module and connected the contacts. Put back the screws and the top. When the stove was new it did not operate properly and we had a technician out, but naturally it worked for him. For the past 14 years intermittent operation has been agravating me. With the new module the burners have never worked so well.
Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).
No problem removing the burners. Removing the old initors was a different story. The tiny screws that hold the ignitor in place were baked in and could not be removed with a screw driver. I drilled them and tried to use an easy out to no avail. The screws are very short so I had to use care not to drill thru the burner. Both screw heads did snap off. I resorted to a hi temp epoxy to secure the ignitor flanges to the burner and now the all burners ignite as designed.
I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.
Wow, ordered the part here and it arrived in 18 hours!! Job was fairly straight forward but the screw holding it in place was corroded and stuck. Several heating and cooling cycles with a torch and some spray lube and lots of patience and I finally rocked the screw lose.
For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.
Unscrewed all the phillips screws holding the door together. Re-assembly indicates that you want to note exactly how the sides overlap the front and back steel panels, possibly take a cellphone picture before starting. The front and back panel will bend down the bottom attachment metal tabs, misaligning the sides, etc if you replace the glass with the door still on the range. Prob. best to have a second standing by or remove entire door first.
Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You
ignintion spark was very weak, burners would not light
removed two screws from each burner, removed ignitor wires from burners, pulled range top removed old module and inserted new reattaching wires for four burners, switch and power to new module. reset top, attached wires to burners and reinserted screws
We lived with the problem by using a long-reach butane torch lighter for three years after an appliance repairman told us the problem would be very costly to repair. Finally, we found the likely suspect when we happened onto PartSelect's website- the spark ignition module. The cost was just over $81 plus shipping. We ordered on Wednesday, it arrived on Friday by FedEx, and I installed it on Saturday morning. All the parts were included, the instructions were clear and complete, and, best of all, our range now works as it should. We couldn't be happier. Thanks, PartSelect.
Removed screws on edges of door. Romove front panel. Remove several screws around glass. Replace inner glass and replace screws. A little tricky reinstalling trim around door front.
Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC