AER5515QAW Amana Range - Instructions

We took the back off the stove and unscrewed the two screws from the inside holding the sensor on and pulled it through and plugged it in and then replaced the screws. Very easy. We are still having trouble as the display does not read the same as the tempature is in the oven.

Performed repairs just as you directed. Everything went in in without a hitch. All the parts fit well and seem to be working fine. Wife still complains. Maybe I need a new burner coil.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

This particular Amana electric range has a "eye" that can serve as the heat source for a small or large pan simply by using the rocker switch to "flip" between "large" or "small." This switch broke. I found Partselect.com, found the part, ordered on Saturday night and received it on Tuesday afternoon. 1) Shut off power to the range at the breaker box. 2) Used a small flat-head srewdriver to pop the old rocker switch from the appliance. 3) Used a set of locking pliers to hold the wires in place as I disconnected the old switch from it's connections using a set of needle-nose pliers. (It was a plug-in style switch). 4) Plugged in the new switch. 5)Released the wires from the locing pliers. 6) Popped the new switch into the range's cabinet. 7) Flipped the breaker to "On". WORKS Perfectly

Changing out the baking element was fairly easy. Shut off power at breaker. Remove the baking trays and the 2 screws at the bottom of the inside back of the oven. There are 3 screws to remove the element. Slide out the connectors and replace. Additionally, the baking element blowing resulted in a blown relay inside the control unit. Unfortunately it is an all in one unit that includes the touchpad PCU board as well. To replace it you must remove the upper rear panel off the back of the oven, remove the electrical connectors, remove the 4 screws and the unit. Put the new unit back in and go in reverse. Power up to test.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

Piece of cake, very easy.

First, I received the element in two days. My local repair store said it would take them a minimum of 10 days to get the part. My husband replaced the element after watching the youtube "how to" video. He knew exactly what to do and did it in about 30 minutes. We were using the oven the next day. Thanks!

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

It was necessary to take the decorative glass and metal safety panel off using a screwdriver in order to get to the frame that holds the safety glass. It was hard to slide the new glass into the frame without help from a second person to hold the other pane in place.This was an easy repair to make I would just suggest having 2 people to hole things in place while replacing screws.

My husband never got around to fixing it so I decided to try it myself. Repair video described it perfectly. Romove bottom panel covering baking element by taking out two screws at the back. Take 4 screws from bottom of the baking element; pull baking element loose from back. Attach new element to back and use needle nose pliers to squeeze connections together lightly. Replace screws. Then slide bottom panel back on top; attach screws at the back. Done!

Unplugged the range, took off back shield (4 screws) unplugged the old part and plugged the new part in, put the shield back on and plugged the range back in. When you remove the light unit behind the lens after unplugging the two contacts slide it sideways toward you, it is slotted, don't try to pull it straight out or you will break the lens.

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).