AER1360AGW Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.

not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from rear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.

First, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then tried to pull the element out to disconnect the wires attached to the clips. The left side came right out. The right side would not. Had to pull the range out from the wall
(would only come out about a foot and a half due to the gas line connection). Removed the back (2 screws). Removed the clip from the element from the rear and redirected the wire into the oven. Replaced the back, pushed the oven back, attached the wire clip and screwed the element in place. Works fine. This is definitely a job not requiring an electrician.

First I removed the two screws on the bottom heating element that hold the element in palace,one on the left side one on the right side, I then pulled the element out about 2 to 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then installed the new element. It took me about 20 mins. The cost of having some come out to fix this was about ten times of what I paid for this part. Thanks for the quick service.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

Removed the oven door and oven racks. Turned off the power to the range/oven. Unscrewed the bottom element and place the new element in its place. Screwed element in and replaced the oven door and racks. Turned the power back on and turned the oven on. It works great.

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Turn off breaker in electric panel fore stove. Put screw driver into slots in front of glass top surface. Pry top up carefully until top pops up.Remove burner dial, remove two philips head screws holding switch. Lift top carefully and prop up.With new switch close remove wires from old switch one at a time and place on new switch. Place new switch back in place, securing with philips screws. Remove prop and carefully press top down until it snappes into place.Replace dial, turn breaker back on and try burner.

Repairman wanted $99 just to come look at it, then the cost to fix it. I got online, found the part, 2 screws and $40 later and all fixed. Wife baked me an apple pie that evening, better than ever!

Shut off power at breaker box , pull stove away from wall , remove Phillips screws from back of range pull knob off of switch . Look to see how switch is oriented remove 2 screws that hold switch in . Remove one set of wires at a time and place on new switch in same location . Put back together in reverse order .

I actually had to hire someone to fix the problem. My stove happened to be one of those they describe on the internet where the wires were not long enough to pull out. Had I tried it would have become a major repair job. The repairman had to use needle nose pliers to grab ahold of the wires and get them out far enough. All went well though and he only charged $25.00.

ordered wrong part, called, was sent return number, sent part back, account credited ... easy return policy ... friendly people, good job