AED4370TQ0 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Very easy to installation,first belt has to go on drum and then through pulley,pulley go on it`s place ,need some pressure on pulley to instal it.Very easy.Thank`s for fast belt delivery. Richard

My husband who is in a wheelchair and his freind who had never worked on a dryer,watched the video online and boom! just like that it was fixed!Some nut told me it would cost too much to fix,To just get a new one!Boy am I grateful for you!Thank You.virginia.

First and foremost, PartSelect is awesome! I placed the order on a Monday afternoon with regular shipping, and I had the belt Tuesday evening. Total repair involved removing several screws to open the top and front of the dryer, then installing the new belt. Pay close attention to the the dryer seal - make sure this is completely set. This was a very, very easy repair, and it cost me less than $20 for part and shipping! Also, the video on the PartSelect site shows exactly how to make this repair, and was very helpful.

I had purchased a motor for the dryer first. The blower wheel broke while I was trying to take the motor off from the blower wheel. Installing the new wheel was fairly easy once I took the blower cover of at the back of the dryer and literally brake the wheel of the motor shaft.

found out that pushing in on wheel and turning counter clock wise, wheel screws off rather easy.

Well it took me longer to get the dryer apart and than it did to get it back together... Well I opened it up it was obvious I had burned up the motor you couldn't even see it for all the lint that was built up around it... And the hardest part was removing the fan from the motor shaft, I didn't realize it was plastic and sort of mangled it getting it off so I went ahead and replaced it as well. The hardest part of the whole repair was removing and replacing the clips that hold the motor in place and there didn't seem to be any trick to it, I used a pair of channel locks and a little muscle to get them off and back on everything else was a breeze! I recommend checking the exhaust pipe at least once a year to make sure air is flowing freely to prevent the lint build up inside and even more often if you have a long run. This should prevent having this problem again...

changed the top thermastat

Read the Use & Care Guide! I spent several hours trying to repair a dryer that was not broken because I was unaware of the "lint signal". While replacing a burnt out heater element I apparently disturbed the flapper on the lint signal box and it stuck in the open position. My wife who does the laundry has always kept the lint filter clean so we had never heard the lint signal and I assumed that the high pitched sound I was hearing must have been from a faulty gasket, belt, roller, pully, or motor. Boy is my face red!

followed the excellent video that showed how to replace the part

The repair could not have went better. Did just as video showed and it was up and running in 10 min..The video was very helpfull.

Watched the how to video on the parts select site. The job to replace the motor was easy although I had some issues with the blower fan wheel as it is made of plastic and was frozen to the motor, yes I turned it the correct way for the left hand threads. I ended up distroying the blower fan wheel and had to buy a new one. I had to remove the rear plate to get at the fan component, but thta was easy to do also. This site should add a "Sometimes bought together" comment for the motor replacement. After all was done I read some of the other comments and found some others had the same problem with the fan wheel. Once I had all the parts the dryer went back together fairly quickly. The job was easy to do and I would believe almost anyone could do it.

DISCONNECT dryer from power source. Removed 2 screws holding lint filter housing, pulled top cover forward to release the two plastic keepers, raised the top cover. Disconnected two wires from the door switch, removed two screws holding front pannel assembly, slightly raised off of two hooks and removed. Supported drum by placing a strap from one side top under drum to the other side top. Removed broken belt. Vacuume any lint from under and around drum. Slid new belt over drum, under drum stuck folded end of belt through tensioner and on to motor pulley. Reinstalled front pannel assembly by lowering onto two hooks near bottom, removed support strap, reinstalled the two screws, hooked up wirind to door switch, lowerew top back in place inserted two screws back into lint filter housing. Plugged up to power supply. Test operate.

The repair was simple, and easy. And would be for any of the parts related to the issue of "no heat" or "not enough heat", however I had never used a multimeter before, and the learning curve was not simple. I ended up ordering a total of four parts, three of which weren't needed in order to perform this repair. Replacing the defective part was very easy. I wish I had been able to find better instructions on the internet or the Partselect website on how to use a mulitmeter to diagnose which part was broken. This would have saved me a couple of days waiting for the correct parts and hours of internet searching for clear instructions. It turned out that the main issue was that some of the parts needed to be checked for continuity and some for resistance. Not knowing which meant a lot of trial and error before I was able to figure out which part was broken. In fact, I really was only able to figure it out AFTER i had the new parts and was able to test the new ones next to the ones in the dryer and see which didn't read the same on the multimeter.

Upon receiving the parts from Parts Select I reviewed the contents of the package and then compared with what i had ordered. I then reviewed the video to locate the part and to ensure correct dis-assembly and installation. I had no problem with the new installation once I sorted out the wiring. Th PS video for this model describes and shows three red or orange wires coming for the harness two standard and on e thin wire which goes to the thermal cut-off. In my dryer this orange or red wire was actually bland white striped. I called PS who suggested I call Whirlpool who also could not help and insisted that this model had an orange wire where I was describing it as black, the concern was was that with this new thermal cut-off wires had to be cut and fitted with new ends to accommodate a change in design. I therefore did a little temporary wiring t before I cut any wires to ensure my assessment was correct. I was then able to cut the black and white wire fit it with a new end and plug it into the double connector that was now fitted to the jumper cable. I the connected the double connector to the thermal cut-off and tested the dryer for heat. I re-fitted the back panel and re-positioned the dryer to present everything is working satisfactorily. I would comment that someone needs to check why my dryer had a black and whit cable coming from the harness when both Whirlpool and the PS video show it as orange/red.

We got this dryer from my F-I-L after they had to enter an elderly home. My F-I-L was a modern Tim-Tool-Man-Tyler. He had removed most of the protections and installed a 392 Thermal cut off, I guess he wanted to dry his cloths in 30 seconds or less. I was not aware of this, and used the dryer. Yes you guessed it, we sat it for a 30 minute cycle and it blew the cut-off and melted the wiring. I am a degree/certified computer tech so I fixed it myself, but I hate 220 electricity. Need less to say I checked with this site for the OEM parts and they pointed me in the correct direction. I did have to remake some of the wires since they were crisp, but it all went well and it was easy enough. The lesson, companies install OEM parts for a GOOD reason, best always to follow the makers directions.