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ADG20L2A Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ADG20L2A
106 - 120 of 380
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igniter wold come on for a second then shut off no flame
removed the two screws that hold the coils in place pulled the coils terminal connections off removed and replaced with new coils reattached quick disconnect terminals dryer now works better than when it was new
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • shaun from mount laurel, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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The dryer was dead no sound no lights no motor
After reading some tips on the parts select site I isolated the high limit fuse and thermostat as the likely problem. The overheating was caused by a buildup of lint in the exhaust fan area. after clearing the obstruction, and replacing the fuse and switch I tested the dryer which worked perfectly.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Tod from Rock Hill, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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High Limit fuse thermostat blew, dryer quit working.
I ordered the part. This is now my third order. It appears that every 10-12 months this happens. I opened the top of the dryer by using a flat head screw driver to push in two clips. The clips are along the front edge of the lid about two inches in from each side. Push in with the screw driver while pulling up the lid. Once the lid is open (of course the plug is pulled) I locate the heat coil. Above the heat coil is the the thermostat, I replace that. Or maybe it is the over heat fuse, I forget. I then replace the sensor found along the side of the heat coil. Re-attach wires. Close lid. Plug back in and ready to go.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Jeremy from Westerville, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Gas dryer would not ignite.
I removed two wires from the coil valves. Then I removed two screws from the bracket that holds the coil valves in place. I removed the faulty coil valves and replaced them with the new ones. Put the bracket back on and replaced the two screws and wires. It took almost 5 minutes. The dryer is like new once again.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • William from Plainfield, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Light would not come on dryer, timer would tick down but motor would not come on.
Popped top open, matched up parts, changed them. Dryer cranked up,got hug from wife. Done life is good.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Dan from Vero Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer would not turn on
After searching you site for other similar problems, we ordered the part that we thought we needed, it arrived within 3 days, my husband installed the part and the dryer started. The information you have on your site was great, it gives you an idea about what to test before having to call a repairman. There were several people that had the same problem and with their description it was easy to test the fuse. Thanks it saved us alot of money and time. I can't describe how the repair was done, my husband did it, but it was very easy
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Lora from Sundown, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer would not turn on
Disconnected power....lifted the top of the dryer to gain access to parts requiring replacement... Unsrcewed two screws 1/4 inch nutdriver....disconnected the two wires...connected the wires to the new part and attached screws...Removed 1 screw from heat element and raised element to get to heat sensor...sensor pops out removed wires and popped new sensor in...replaced wires closed top lid reconnected power source and started dryer
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Francis from Ocean Springs, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dry would not heat
First i unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Then I used a flat head screwdriver to lift open the top cover of the dryer. I removed the two wires connected to the thermal fuse and removed the two screws that attached the fuse to the holder. I placed the new fuse on the holder using the two screws. I plugged the two wires back up to the fuse and closed the lid. Be sure to fixed what caused the problem before attempting to use the dryer. I my case there was a massive amount of lint beneath the lint tray which had the vent blocked.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • james from mcminnville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer flame would light then would not ignite again
I used a socket to take of the front cover. I used a screwdriver to remove the two screws that held the coils in place. Replaced the coils and put everything backs together. Piece of cake!
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • Susan from Glendale, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer cut off during cycle
First I opened the top of the dryer, then removed the bracket holding the high limit thermostat. Then I removed the heating element to gain access to the thermal fuse. Installation was the reverse. I also cleaned out the lint trap on the front of the dryer and also checked the vent duct (it is cleaned every year). Very easy repair.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Randy from Loganville, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer completely dead
Pry the front of the top up - it's held on with barbed fasteners that just snap out. Underneath the hood against the back panel is the heating coil assembly. On top of it is the thermostat, hanging from the side of it is the thermal fuse. I removed the heating elements (coiled wires held in frame) to make access to the other parts easier.
Pretty much plug-n-play. One nut driver takes off everything, you might need a needle-nosed pliers to push the lugs onto the contacts of the replacement parts (they fit VERY snugly).

Also, remove the front panel and clean out the lint in the air duct - lint collecting there is apparently what drives up the temp causing the fuse to blow in the first place.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Steven from Emmaus, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer stopped mid-cylce, would not restart
Unplugged dryer.
Popped the lid using a butter knife by pushing in the two latches (located about 4 inches in from the side in the seam where the top lid and front panel meet).
Used pliers to remove the electrical leads to the two fuses (two leads each fuse).
Unscrewed the top fuse from the mounting bracket, then removed the heating coil, then unscrewed the lower/bottom fuse from its mounting bracket. Tested each fuse with my trusty (and rarely used) volt/ohm meter -- which verified that I had bad fuses.
Replaced the bottom/lower fuse, re-attached to the mounting bracket, reconnected the electrical leads.
Replaced the heating coil.
Replaced the top fuse in its mounting bracket and reconnected the electrical leads.
Closed the lid. Plugged in the dryer. Works like a charm.
NOTE: I checked more than 50 feet of exhaust duct to make certain there were no clogs (which is what caused the problem). I discovered that my conduit (that tube-like thing that connects the exhaust from the dryer to the exhaust port in the wall or floor) was kinked and created a clog. I trimmed it and now it works and I have improved drying performance.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • william from oak hill, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer Would Not Turn On (Dead)
After removing the control panel face plate, the lid, the front panel, and the drum, I had to trouble shoot the wiring to determine the dead spot. I found it to be the thermal fuse for the heating element. I then unplugged the wires to the fuse, removed the fuse from the fuse bracket, and then replaced evrything in reverse order.
Parts Used:
High Limit Kit
  • Dennis from Trout Run, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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would ignite but not run for more than 10 min.
Unplug unit turn off gas, remove only bottom front panel first tried radient flame sensor was not the problem it was the coils which were infront easy to acess with small screw driver remove two prong coil and replaced then the three pronged coil being sure to line them back before tigtening left off cover and watched for ignition once it turned on and ran replaced cover and done.
Parts Used:
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • brian from butte, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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The heat would go off after a few minutes
Removed the screws on the dryer vent and the back of the dryer top. Then I raised up the top panel and removed the screws that held the front panel on. I removed the front panel to access the coils. I replaced the coils and then the front and top panel and screws. All went well. The dryer is working properly now.
Parts Used:
M Series New Style Coil Kit
  • John from MUSKOGEE, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
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All Instructions for the ADG20L2A
106 - 120 of 380