ADE26K3A Admiral Dryer - Instructions

I followed instructions from video -- although the model used in the video was different, the approach was similar. Really the only difficulty was laying on my back (72 years old) and, with one hand and through feel alone (work area was not visible), getting the belt on the drive sprocket and the spring loaded wheel.

Must remove 2 screws in the lint screen port anchoring the top of the dryer. Next the front panel of the dryer is removed from the machine by pulling up with a putty knife disassembling the clip holding the front in place. 2 more screws are then removed holding front panel of the dryer. The doors sensor switch is then removed freeing the front panel to be removed. At this point after the front panel is off and the top of the dryer lifts in an upwards position and you can now see the tub and the broken belt. The belt has to be reinserted around the tub into the pulley assembly before being pulled onto the motor. The pulley lifts upward towards the tub if it was put on correctly. It has to be placed underneath the pulley in order to have tension put on the belt firming the connection between the tub and motor. To reassemble just reverse what you have taken off in that order. Their is a DYI video which shows the process perfectly. Have a good one !

Followed directions on movie. This was a simple process. Although in the end I found that replacing the rollers was not the problem in the end. It turned out to be the motor, which I was able to repair with some prior experience with electric motors and a bit of oil. That's why it took as long as it did to make the total repair. Still happy with the outcome.

Thousand dollars for a new dryer or twenty bucks for a new belt. Thank-you parts select. Ordering was easy and the instructions were bang on!

follow video and fix.

I lifted the top of the dryer. I unhooked the hangers from the door and took it off. I pulled the drum out, took the broken belt off, slid the new one around the outside middle of the drum, turning the rib side of the belt out,and ran the belt through the pulley attached to the bottom base of the dryer (tension pulley, right hand side), slid the drum back inside the dryer frame, reattached the door, closed and snapped the dryer lid and it worked great!!

Your customer service was great, but your video wasn't particularly helpful because of the extreme age of my dryer. For one thing, with these really old dryers, you don't have to slide the drum out at all; you just unscrew the front panel and slip the belt in that way. The printed diagram that came with the belt helped me figure how the belt slips through the pulley assembly, but the drawing could have been more clear. In spite of my bickering, I probably saved $50 fixing it myself.

Disconnect electric power, the top & cabinet are connected by 2 reusable locks about 4 inches from each front corner, use a thin flat putty knife or similar object, push inward on a lock while lifting gently on the front of the top piece, then let the top rest against the wall. ( a wire on each end of a safety switch for the dryer door may need disconnected) Remove a screw from each front corner of the cabinet, then pull upward on the loose front panel to access the drive motor, remove old belt. install new belt by lifting the front of the drum just high enough to allow the new belt, place groves of belt against the drum and around the motor pulley and belt tensioner, re-install cabinet front, (re-connect safety switch wires) return top and push down at cabinet locks.

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

I opened the lid and using the Nut driver removed the old High limit Thermostat.Then repalces the new one, replaced the lid and plugged in the dryer.It still did not start.I then found the fuse hiddden on the side of the heater element, testd the fuse on it was blown. I placed an order for the fuse.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done