ADE20L4H Admiral Dryer - Instructions

I watched the online video three times. This was extremely useful. I just did what it showed. I doubt I could have fixed it without the video. This has got to be the best feature of the internet. I didn't have the exact model number, but the belt fit. I was surprised at how close the tensioning wheel was to the motor. Perhaps the belt will stretch with age and use.

We noticed the drum wasn't spinning, but the heat was turning on. About 3 years ago the heat was broken and it turned out that there was a little thermal fuse in there that needed swapped out, that was easy too fix too. Anyway, I looked up on youtube how to change out dryer belts on maytag units and it looked pretty straight forward. The model they showed was easier to access than my model, but I was able to still figure it out. Just pop off the top panel (they used a putty knife at the two clip points on the front, but I just yanked it up with a little force and it popped right up). Then unscrew the two little screws holding the front panel on, then pull off the front panel completely. This exposes the drum. The example on youtube showed easy front access to the belt assembly, but in my model, there was a stand for the drum as well as the drum motor in the way. So I just pulled the whole drum out the front most of the way, then I went behind the drum where I had exposed the pully/motor shaft assembly and then fed in the new belt into belt tension assembly that connects to the motor. While keeping it taught so the ribs of the belt would stay on the motor head (I had my wife hold it taught) I pushed the drum back toward the hanging belt and then worked the edges of the belt around the drum until it once again was completely around the drum. Then I slowly pushed the drum all the way back into place while continually working the belt back into place as I went. I then manually rolled the drum around a few times to ensure it was rolling correctly and that the belt was indeed in the right place. After a few good spins without it changing position, I reassembled the unit. It was very painless and took about 15-20 minutes in all. Works just fine again.

I replaced belt by myself. Took dryer apart,laid dryer on its back, put belt and pulley on. Rotated drum to make sure seal was in place. Cleaned out machine while I had it apart.

My husband and I followed the video step by step and it worked like a charm.

My Whirlpool washer/dryer combo is 15 years old and has given trouble-free service until this belt snapped. I went to the PartSelect website for the replacement part and found the instructional video. As a DIY neophyte I know my limits but this looked like something I could tackle and save a few bucks on. The part arrived pronto and installation went smooth as butta! I couldn't be happier and even the wife is impressed. Knowing what a service call would have cost makes the whole shebang even sweeter. Thank you PartSelect!

after the removal of the front i removed the drum and inspect all idler wheels for ware replace if needed. if not clean and lube. idlers must be in good condition...bad idler wheels can cause the belt to brake

Pulled the front of the dryer off. Removed the old belt. Replaced the new one by threading it flat side down, except for the drive motor which was ribbed, so the belt had to be installed sort of serpentine like. Replaced front of dryer and it's like new.

The very first thing you want to do is Unplug the Dryer. I then took the two screws out that hold the lint screen to the top of the dryer. Then I used and old butter knife to pry the front top of the machine open. The top is held in place by two plastic clamps. Once I got the top loose I raise it up. Once I had it raised, I pulled up and out on the front panel where the dryer door is. I left the door switch connected and just put the panel off to the right. I then removed the old belt which was lying under the drum. The drum does drop slightly once you take the door off. This was one of the hardest part of the project for me as I did not have any help. This would be much easier if you just have one other person to hold the drum. Anyway, I then placed the new belt around the drum and used my left shoulder / arm to hold up the drum while feeding the belt in the slot on the tensioner and then over the dryer motor pulley. Make sure you don't twist the belt. I originally had a twist and when I hand turned the drum the belt came off the pulley and the tensioner. I had to rethread the belt through the slot on the pulley and then put the belt back on the dryer motor pulley. I then gave the drum a couple complete turns to make sure everything was staying in place. The tensioner on my dryer did not look like the instructions that came with the new belt. My belt tensioner is like a half circle and the belt just rides on it. I think if I had it to do over I would have purchased a new tensioner also. I feel that the belts constant motion against the tensioner probably causes it to wear out faster. Once I made sure evrything was staying on I replaced the front panel that has the door. You just slide the bottom into the slots while holding up on the drum so it lies on the felt padding around the door. Replace all screws and presto. Works like a new Dryer. Make sure you don't forget to plug it back in... Overall it's a pretty easy fix and much less expensive then a service call or purchasing a new Dryer.

I had to open the top of the dryer which was different for me. All of the dryers I've ever owned have had a panel on the back to remove. Fairly difficult to get to the fuse itself. I had to remove the heating element and use pliers to take the connectors off the leads. It worked for a few days and is back down again. I hope I didn't damage the element while taking it out but, luckily, I have a spare dryer so I haven't had a chance to look at it again yet.

Popped the left and right side clips that hold the top, took out left and right side screws that held front face on, disconnected the wire that went to the door, tilted the door to me and lifted up from tabs on bottom. The old belt was broke, so it was easy to get off. Put the new belt on the drum making sure that the rubber ribs were touching the drum then I put the belt on the tensioner pully and motor pully. I rotated the drum by hand at least 1 full revolution to make sure that the belt was on right and it wasn't twisted, then I put everything back together. Easy 10 minute job... Art

I watched the installation video. It was exactly as shown.

I followed video instructions. Raised the top, slipped off the front, installed the belt, aligned, installed tension part, reinstalled front, lowered the top and inserted lint trap. Job done. Quick and easy. The video was the key to the whole project.

This was my first dryer repair. The only difficulty I had was figuring out how the belt tensioner was set up with the belt. The old belt broke so I didn't know how it was suppose to work. Anyway, it took a few minute to figure out that one end of the bracket was a "spring" that allowed it to flex a long ways! Pretty easy job.

Identified the rollers as the root cause of the drum not freely rotating. They also squeaked a little at the beginning of any cycle. I replaced the rear rollers and shafts using the parts from the roller replacement kit. Easy to do. The hardest parts was re-installing the belt.

The video you had of my dryer was different then my dryer and the pulley was in the middle of the bottom and the motor and fan were in front of it. I had to replace the belt without being able to see what I was doing. I couldn't get it at first then realized there was tension on the pulley wheel and had to pull it towards the other wheel in order to get the belt on there. Once I pulled the wheel it went on really easy. My first time working on a dryer but I knew I could do it myself.