ADB1500AWW10 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

The door wouldn't close and it thought it the sensor was constantly open so it would turn on even if the door was wide open. Took the 10 or so torx screws off and removed the cover. Lifted the old assembly out and had to use pliers to get the wires detached from the door sensors. Attached the sensors to the new assembly, replaced the cover and screws and that was it. very easy fix.

Remove screws holding the existing white panel. Once that panel was loose, there are several screws internally that have to be taken out in order to fully remove the panel. The new panel is then installed by putting it in place and reinserting the screws. It is an easy"fix" to change the DW to match other stainless steel appliances. You do need to be careful to make sure the door springs stay attached.

I have done two repairs, and both times PartSelect.com came to the rescue! The first repair was a few years ago when the dishwasher would run but nothing got wet. It made all the right noises except the sound of water being thrown around, because no water was being pumped! This resulted from a cheap plastic "chopper" assembly that stripped and wouldn't drive the impeller. PartSelect sold me a solid metal replacement part for under $10 and that fixed the problem for several years.

Recently, we had a different problem where the dishwasher completely haulted and the wash motor wouldn't run. This was caused by a faulty impeller, another cheap plastic part. The wash impeller fragmented around the drive shaft to where it sat uneven and thus created too much resistance for the motor to drive it. I removed the impeller, superglued the plastic parts together so that I could then wrap them in copper wire (about 1mm diameter), and then I hot-glued over the copper wrapping to secure the entire thing and to help keep water out of it. I did this so that we could wash dishes while we waited for the new impeller. Well the new impeller came several days early and so far I have just been too lazy to go remove the makeshift part. I figure it will fail sooner or later and then I will install my new part which should give me at least 9 more years of trouble free washing!

removed dishes, vacumed water out, unhooked fresh water supply and drain hose. Then slid out unit, tipped it over unhooked hose and twisted drain pump off mount, inserted new unit and locked it into place. Returned dw under counter, connected hoses for water and drain and tust run....all ok!

It was very simple. My neighbor, whom I call Tobias Maintenance & Repair, did all the work, while I watched with a glass of Jack Daniel’s. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and all seems good again. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.

However: The Float Assembly I thought I ordered was not the one I received. Also the pump drawing did not indicate that I would not require O-Ring Drain Pump, so that was ordered. My request for return information has been ignored. Please send me $8.80 and I’ll call it even.

after removing dishwasher from cabinet I discovered a crack at the right rear mounting boss of the tub, Unfortuneatly this was My fault as I was careless in My leveling procedure during the install 3 years in the past.
Bottem line, Replaced unit with stainless steel model $700.00
Will pay close attention to install instrustions

I took out the racks and disassembled the bottom assembly until I got to the impeller. Just replaced the part and reassembled. I used only a star shaped driver on all tightened pieces. It was very easy to do and I did not even need any advice/help from the hubby! Saved a whole lot of time and money doing this small repair myself. Thanks for fast service. I ordered part online Thur. late afternoon, and it arrived Friday.

All I had to do was litterally snap the wheels into place..it was so easy and so cheap!

Easy! Unscrewed panel, took off old latch, put on new. Took about five minutes.

In the back of the dishwasher there are two docking stations for the racks to go into for the water to flow to the rack spinners. These stations have rubber gaskets and flaps in the back that totally wear out. Where our problem was mostly the top rack at first I just replaced the top one and the dishes got cleaner but not perfect. So then I ordered the second one and replaced that one too, now the dishes are perfectly clean all the time!! I would suggest replacing both at the sam time. Just pull off the old part and snap the new part into place. No tools needed. Have to remove the top rack to replace that one. The bottom one could be replaced with the rack pulled out. Thank goodness for Parts select!! This has been the worst dishwasher ever and I have replaced so many parts throught Parts Select. My $189 dishwasher I had before this high end dishwasher was much better-- I know why Maytag got bought out--poor quality!

I'm telling this story for my husband who is a pretty handy guy--I watched him do the repair. I had had someone out to look at the dishwasher and they said it would be $284 to fix this one little thing because you couldn't buy the one little part separately, you had to buy a whole new motor. Since the dishwasher is old, it didn't make sense to invest this much in it--might as well buy a new one for that kind of money. My husband did some looking around and found the part on your site and installed it himself. So the cost was under $40. The dishwasher is now working better than it had been for a while.

First, shut off the circuit that the dishwasher is on. Remove the 10 - 12 screws that secures the inside waterproof panel to the door. There are two electrical connections are either side of the handle (latch assembly) that need to be removed. No need to disconnect any other connections or reservoirs. The handle comes right out. Seat the new one in door front opening. Reconnect the electrical leads and reseat the interior panel. I would put in the 2 screws are either side of the handle first; then the 2 at the bottom on either side and then the remaining. This is a very easy DIY job.

Removed all the screws holding the inside panel of the door to the door itself. Lifted out the old broken door latch. Pulled the wire clips from the 2 switches located on either side if the door Latch assembly. This is a bit difficult. You have to keep working the wire clips back & forth; Up & down until the clips are free from the switch metal contacts. Reinstall the wire clips on the new door Latch assembly making sure you attach the black wires and white wires on the same side of the new latch assembly as on the one removed. Replace the new latch assembly aligning the mounting holes on the door with the new latch holes. Replace the inside panel aligning the holes and replace the screws. The screws were the star head type so you need a special driver bit. I used the box the latch came in the prop up the inside door panel while I worked.

I removed the screws around the top and halfway down the sides of the inside of the door. I found that you dont have to remove all 10 screws to access the assembly. Reach in and pulled out the assembly, there was enough slack to pull it out above the door. Pull the connectors off and slide the new ones on. Set the new assembly back in place, insert the 2 top screws first, and then the rest. That was it...very simple to change.

Ensure to order part # PS1559543, which is the complete assembly although the diagram doesn't show this, and not PS2100626 which doesn't include the handle. The new assembly is a different style than the original therefore you should replace the complete assembly.

This was an easy fix. Remove the eleven torque screws on the door and separate the inner door panel enough to remove the old assembly. Remove the wire connections from the door switches, reconnect to the new assembly, and reinstall the assembly and inner door panel.