the turn table no turn and no heat the food. but the bottom oven worked
well I unplugged the microwave one day prior to working on it. shock precaution smart way to do this job. very easy pullout the screws behind the unit pull off the outer casing. minor screws inside the unit you have to remove a couple things out of the way. unplug the magnetron and remove first gives you more room to work on the side panel to replace the micro switches. I only replaced one the bottom micro switch. only one bad, but since I was in there I clean the bulb and changed the magnetron any ways. I read other reviews and made my choice to do so. it works perfectly now. Thanks PartSelect for having parts.
Removed some cosmetic panels. Removed the assembly with micro switches. Examined the faulty switch by checking the clicking action of switch. Two others were ok by this method. Replaced the switch with new one. Works fine so far. Thanks to web site and YouTube videos.
Would not heat and made a buzzing or popping sound
Unplug the microwave. Remove the Philips head and safety Torx head screws along the bottom of the sides and rear of the microwave which hold the black cover on. Lift the cover up at the rear and slide it backwards to disengage the tabs on the front top. Remove the cover. Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals to each other and then ground. Do this with a well insulated object and be aware there may be a pop when you do this. Keep hands, etc. on the insulated part of the object (screwdriver handle, etc). There's a lot of stored energy in that capacitor. I'd advise first checking the diode to make sure its not bad. Replace it if it is. The Magnatron is held in with a couple of screws on the top and sides. Unplug the connector and remove the screws. Remove the Magnatron. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Turned the microwave on its side. (Recommend turning it on its top. i had to fish the wire connection back to the center after it dropped away from the motor.) There is a spot under the rotation motor where an access port was stamped in the tin but not cut out. Used the small side cutter to complete the cut where tin had been left between holes. I unplugged the wires, removed the old motor by removing one screw, and installed the new one by reusing the same screw. The motor must have a reduction gear inside the case. The motor coil tested good, about 128 ohms, but it acted like there was a stripped gear inside. I wasn't interested enough to try to open the motor and confirm.
Had to go to the garage and get a small sheet metal screw to close the new trap door.
The "new" motor had scratches on it, made me wonder if it was really new, but it works fine and will probably outlast me.
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
Plate stopped rotating - discovered plastic piece that spinner fit into was broken
Remove 2 Philips Head screws on left side of microwave. Remove 3 Philips Head screws from bottom rear of microwave. Remove 4 security screws from back of microwave (holding the cover to frame). These are the security type tips that are like a Torx bit, but need to be hollow in middle to accommodate pin in center of screw. Then back plate of microwave with heavy transformer still attached slides up and away. The wires aren't long enough to allow it to rest flat on the bench, but weight is low so it's easy to hold it upright while removing the motor unit. Separate connector from motor (simple) Remove motor by unscrewing 1 phillips head screw and rotating counter-clockwise a tiny bit. Remove Motor. Reverse steps to re-assemble. Note that there are a series of tabs at the bottom of the back cover that fit into holes in the baseplate of microwave. It can be a little tricky to line them up with the weight of the transformer, but it's not too bad. Once lined up, it drops in nicely and all the various screw holes line up. The microwave is a bad cooker when the plate doesn't spin. This simple and inexpensive fix saved me from having to buy a whole new oven.
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
Replaced the broken piece with the one purchased at Partselect.com. I was concerned that the part would not be correct since all we did was enter the model number of the microwave. PartSelect.com was really easy to use and sent the correct part. Thanks so much for making this process easy.
Stem broken off the turntable base so the turntable wouldn't rotate
Removed the broken plastic base that the glass turntable sets on and put in the new plastic base. Took 5 seconds max! The part arrived in about 24 hours! Great service!
Part select made it very easy for me to purchase a replacement plate, which I didn’t think I was going to be able to find so thank you part select for having what I needed
Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos
Items were not getting heated up in the microwave,
I went to LG website enter model number and was given a list of parts that need to be replaced with a percentage of which part fails the most. I order micro switch PS3522738 which arrived and PS3529293 was backordered. I installed the one that arrived. The microwave worked briefly. I reordered and waited for both switches to arrive and installed both. The microwave still doesn't work.
