ABD2233DES Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

This is the 2nd time I have used PartSelect, and this experience was as pleasant as the 1st. The exploded-view diagrams make parts identification very easy; and the photo of the actual part is such a great idea, it allows you to verify what you need. I also got my part (cross country, in 3 days)

Repair Procedure: Shut off water supply. It may be easier to work if you disconnect the water supply tube, but it is not required. On the backside of the refrigerator, remove the bottom, black plastic protection panel. You will need a nut driver or battery-powered screw driver with a 3/8" socket tip on it. Next, remove the black metal panel that holds the water inlet valve in place. Remove screws with a nut driver. 1st remove the two flat-pin power connectors. (They are different sizes and color-coded, so there is no room for making a re-hookup mistake). Then proceed to remove the hoses. The hoses are pressure-lock tubing, so push the plastic disk in or down where the tube goes into the main body of the valve. Do this for all three hoses (tubes). Switch water valves and reverse the procedure. **Be certain that the tubes are pushed back in as far as they can go; if you do not re-seat the tubes, the pressure from the water going back in the valve, will blow the tubes right out the valve (ask me how I know this!). Once reassembled, turn the water back on slowly. Make sure you turn the water supply valve all the way open, it seats itself internally when you do and is less prone to drip leaks. That's it! (As a former kitchen remodeler, I find this a great DIY project).

Shutoff water and turn off fridge. Remove the main water hose from the fridge with pliers, then remove back bottom plate of fridge where the hose was at (about 5 screws) in order to disconnect the hoses going into the valve by pushing in on the plastic colored fastener(blue & white) while pulling on the hose at the same time. Do this for each of the hoses. Then disconnect the wires from the valve and unscrew the valve(1 screw) from the back plate. Replace with new valve which comes with brand new fasteners for the hoses so all you have to do is insert the hoses in the valve and reverse the above process to install the valve.

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Removed shelf drawer. Then removed plastic coverings from back panel of freezer. Squeezed tabs of ice maker connector to push it behind the back panel. With nut driver, removed the four screws holding the panel and removed the panel. Used a hair dryer to remove frost from upper right area that contains the defrost thermostat. Cut out the thermostat and removed the connector on the right from the defrost heater. Removed brown wire from a few of the clips. Attached orange wire from new thermostat to orange wire leading to connector removed from defrost heater and the brown wires to each other using the pliers and supplied crimpable wire nuts. Wrapped the connections with self fusing tape. Reconnected the wiring to the defrost heater and clipped the new defrost thermostat to where the defective one was removed. Used the hair dryer to melt the ice that was covering the drain, then a turkey baster to unclogg the drain. Put everything back together.

Installed new ice maker. It was easy - loosen two screws and unplug old wire harness. Put new unit in place. Did not realize new unit would not come with wire harness, but transferred old one to new ice maker (easy) and, "voila" some ice in 24 hours -- much ice since then. I am a 68 year old woman and it was "sort of fun" doing this job.

Well the frist thing I did was get out the all the paper work and look under trouble shooting.This frig has a list of codes to try to help narrow down what parts might be bad.Well at frist it seemed it was a Defrost Thermastat?Well thanks to PartSelect it showed me right where it was and step by step how to remove and replace it.It took me over 2Hr's,after that I let the frig run all night and the next morning(yep warm frig)not the part I needed,well now Im mad,the local part store said you need a 3in1 jump starter easy to in stall at $50.Can'nt bring parts back no way weather thier opened or not.So get home and can'nt see how this jumper is going to wire up to my compresser?So on to the Web site to get some info,find out that this part gets a thumb's down,it puts out more volt's then needed and kills your compresser the reviews where very help full.So back to PartSelect to see more info,then I spoted the Overload/Relay and went to the back of my Frig and this part just plugs right into the compresser,I pulled it of with pliers and Bingo a burn spot melted right through the Overload/Relay.Ordered the right part the same as the old one.Put the part in and Bam,compresser fired right up.If I only did alittle more home work I could off saved alot of head ach and money.Thanks PartSelect I'll alway's click on to your web site for future parts and advise.

removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled

I called the repairman and he troubleshot the problem and told me that he could order the part or that I could. He quickly explained what to do. I ordered the part it came in with 2 days during that time I looked up on how to remove and replace the part on the website. The website stated it took around 15 minutes. That is all it took. I had to use a screw driver to remove two screws and seperate the connection. I reconnected the wiring per instructions on the website reversed the process and it was done within 15 minutes. I save a lot of money and time away from work. This is a grest site to get what you need to fix your appliances. If I have any problems with my other equipment I will becoming back to this website to get the parts and information

I want to thank you for providing the information and helping folks out that can do the job

replaced control board

Removed two screws that held cover plate. remove cover plate. Remove water hose, and clamp, by compressing clamp with pliers. Remove fill tube by pulling HARD, from back.

Replace fill tube, check to be sure that it entered ice maker properly. Replace hose and clamp.
Replace cover and screws.

I didn't know what the plastic was - just that it was unappetizing. Reading other posts, it must have been the teflon coating. The refrigerator is 13 years old and reading other posts, I guess I'm lucky it lasted that long.

My boyfriend did the repair and here is his story:

The first ice maker we received was cracked on one corner. Not knowing how it got that way, I was concerned that there might be additional internal damage and that the unit wouldn’t work properly. Part Select was contacted and a replacement unit was sent with no difficulty.
As other reviewers have said, the replacement was quite easy, taking less than half an hour. The only tools I needed were a screwdriver and a nut driver. To begin, unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the ice maker. Loosen, but do not remove, the two top attachment screws. Then remove the bottom screw. Lift the unit up off the top screws and remove the water inlet hose at the top right. It’s probably a good idea to have a container handy to catch the small amount of water that comes out, but you’ll need a third hand for this.
The electrical wiring harness is very short and may be tricky to disconnect. On my refrigerator there is a round vinyl connector that plugs into a receptacle on the back wall of the freezer compartment directly behind the ice maker. This was removed with no difficulty (accidently, actually). Once the unit is out of the refrigerator you can remove the connector from the ice maker by using a screwdriver to depress the latch tab that is visible in a window in the unit housing. When installing the connector in the new unit make sure it is fully seated. Next, reconnect the round vinyl connector to the receptacle on the back wall of the freezer compartment. This was the worst part of the whole procedure. You have to support the unit close to the back of the freezer (due to the short harness) with one hand while inserting the connector with the other. This requires both arms in a confined space. The first time I did it I apparently didn’t get a good electrical connection on one end of the harness, and it didn’t work. Because the connectors are directly behind the ice maker I had to remove the unit and re-install it, but it was much quicker the second time, less than 10 minutes.
Once the connectors are in place put the water inlet hose into the opening at the top right. You may need to re-use the retaining clip from the old unit for this. Slide the two top mounting ears down between the screw heads and the back wall of the freezer compartment and tighten the screws. Then install the bottom screw. Plug in the refrigerator, turn on the water and make yourself a frosty beverage.
All in all, a relatively quick and painless procedure.

Another note - we kept saying "is there ice yet"? I think the metal bar that controls the ice maker needed to be raised and lowered a few times before it would work properly as it seemed to raise 1/2 way but the ice would not drop so I put it down and it worked its way up. Had to do it a couple of times over a 4 hour span but once going, it is working like a champ.

unscrewed to removed old and screwed in new

Diagnosing the part I needed was the biggest problem and thus my offer to post this feedback. I assumed the dual valve was the culprit by the description on Partselect - if the part was to allow water to dispense (into the ice mold) when activated, it stood to reason that when NOT activated, it should STOP the flow. I guessed right. Partselect should add to the description that this part also controls water flow to the drinking water dispenser, not just for the ice. Unplug fridge and close water supply valve (probably saddle valve in basement...)Part is located on back of fridge, lower left hand side. The water lines will lead you right there. Remove all sheet metal screws with nutdriver. Remove panel to gain access. Remove all water lines, taking note which lines went into which opening. Note: no tools necessary for this. Pull line out with one hand while depressing the blue plastic ring around the intake of the valve. Will pull right out. Have towels and/or bucket to capture water in lines. Replace lines simply by pushing them into the correct opening. Replace valve and panel. Plug in fridge, turn water supply back on. Also want to say the the service was GREAT from Partselect. Called the 800 number on a Sunday afternoon. Rep was GREAT. Had part two days later - sent regular delivery! Awesome!

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.