ABC2037DTS Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

removed old water head valve and replaced with the new one.

Unplug refrigerator. Remove the food trays in the freezer section. Unplug the wire connector to the icemaker. Remove the three screws to the icemaker then remove the icemaker. To remove the back panel, first remove the plastic cover on the top by inserting a screwdriver in the indicated slots on the sides then prying until cover snaps off. Remove the plastic cover for the temperature probe in the upper right corner by snapping off the cover and carefully fishing the probe through the hole in the cover. Remove the 4 screws in the rear panel and carefully pull panel out from rear of freezer section. Fish the temperature probe through the hole to allow the panel to be removed. Snap the plastic icemaker plug connecter mounting bracket out of rear panel and fish it through the panel. Now the rear panel can be completely removed. Locate the defrost thermostat in the upper section of the freezer compartment and unsnap it from the copper coil. Cut wires to the thermostat, being sure to leave enough length to splice the new thermostat in. Crimp the wires to the new thermostat using a butt connector and heat shrink tubing to seal up the connection. Snap the new thermostat onto the copper tube where the old one was positioned. It is a good idea to check the heater element with an ohmmeter while you have this all apart. Do this by unplugging the element on the right side and connecting one side of your meter to the plug there and the other side of your meter to the plug connection that is on the icemaker plug (trace the wires). If you do not get any continuity, then your element is bad and will need to be replaced. Replace the rear cover after re-installing the plug assemby for the icemaker and temperature probe. Dont forget to fish the icemaker tube and the temperature probe through the rear cover before screwing it back in place. re- install the plastic covers on the rear panel and the temperature probe, then reinstall the icemaker.

Couldn't believe how complicated this part is with heaters. It is used in at least a billion refrigerators and functions well. But I had to tear it all apart to adopt it. Got it all done and stayed awake all night for waiting for Ice. Nothing! Then a Erika moment! Turn the ice arm full switch off! Then Ice poured out every hour. Expecting many years of ice. Thanks for speedy delivery especially before Christmas..

need instr. to repair

The replacement itself was as easy as it gets. What made it harder was the need to remove the white plastic cover from the old drawer. Although some said it was easy, ours was a bit of a challenge. The video was helpful, in letting us know to start at the bottom when removing the cover. After that, pretty easy. No tools required.

Pull the refrigerator forward take off the back panel and replace valve seem valve leaking

Remove freezer door: two pan head machine screws on sides of track, lift and pull. Remove icemaker: electrical connector with latches, three sheet metal screws with 5/16 hex heads, easiest to get top two first. Remove bezel vent from back panel: 3 latches, one lower center other two upper sides. These release with a 3/16 screwdriver. Start with the center one. Remove back panel: 4 sheet metal screws in corners, bow outward to clear retainer and pull out. May have to defrost coil and fins: remove any loose frost gently with plastic scraper, warm with hot air gun on low setting, keeping it moving and a foot or so away from refrigerator parts. Mop up water. Diagnosis: set multimeter to read resistance. Unplug orange wire connected to thermostat. One probe on orange wire, one probe on brown wire, where it enters the multi-connector. Unclip thermostat and warm in your hand. Should be open circuit. Bury thermostat in a handful of frost to cool down. Should be closed circuit. I had about 6 M Ohms, so decided problem was probably thermostat. Also checked heater, which had 30 Ohm resistance, which is correct. Reassembled, ordered part. Disassembled. Unclipped old thermostat and cut off wires. Kit comes with end cap electrical crimps. I used butt splice crimps instead, with a bit of heat shrink tubing over the ends to keep water out. Unplugging orange wire made this a bit easier. Clipped thermostat back onto coil. Reassembly: snap in back panel, re-attach screws. Make sure icemaker hose and connector pass through respective holes, and connector is latched in place. Watch out for sharp edges. Re-install bezel grille; alignment is a bit finicky. Re-install icemaker. Re-install door and baskets. Store food. Done.