AAV7000AJW Admiral Washer - Instructions

I replaced the brake spring(not really necessary) and the snubber ring.I also installed a new thrust bearing kit,but the problem turned out to be a bad transmission.I found a good working used one at a local junk yard and so far it is working great.Your how to videos were very helpful in getting the job done properly.Thanks very much!

The pump did not fit the washer. The situation required that I drill holes in the washer base to match holes in the pump base. The pump sat too far down causing the nozzle to be impeded by the shape of the washer base. To rectify this I used bolts and nuts to secure pump to washer base and used three washers for each of the three nuts to raise the pump into the proper position. After jockeying the pump into place, it works fine, so far. The water pump is a simple enough device that relays on sturdy bearings and a proper seal. If the pump fails it will be entirely because the bearings wore out as with the last much cheaper replacement pump I purchased ($14). The original started leaking eight years after we bought the machine.

The first thing we did was to lift the top of the washer off the main box by unscrewing the hinges at the back of the washer. We then were able to access the lid hinge screws located underneath the lid. We unscrewed and removed the old hinges from the washer, lifting the lid off the washer. Then we were able to unscrew and remove the old hinges from the lid itself. We then screwed on the new hinges and pins, and reattached the lid to the washer. Finally we put the top back on the main box of the washer and screwed the top back onto the main assembly, and voila! It works great and saved us $200 in repairs.

I followed the directions online, but they don't talk about two difficulties with this model. The first is removing the drive belt. This is CRUCIAL! Tilt the dryer backwards, and remove the belt from the pulleys. When putting it back on, when the repair is complete put it on the two smaller pulleys first, and then the large pulley. The other difficulty that is not addressed with this model is accessing the suspension springs. If you choose not to remove the entire housing, I would use a wooden block (2x4 works great) to act as a lever for the vicegrips. I may be weak, but I have a bruised forearm that would have been avoided if I had thought of the wooden block earlier.

I removed the belt and pully form under the washer. Lefted the top cover, removed the hardware above the tub, took the front cover panel off to gain access to the tub. Used pliers to remove the springs. Lifted the tub up high enough to install the snubber ring. After putting tht washer back together and doing the first the load the washer stopped banging.

open top with putty knife. take screw out holding valve. unscrew hoses and reverse procedure. also replaced washers.

I replaced the suspension springs and the snubber ring. It was a ittle dificult because there was no door in back of machine. so i had to remove entire cabnet. using the quarters to spread the springs was a great help. it would have been a lot harder if you had not showed me this trick. Machine is working great now. Thank You.

Remove all hoses and power supply tiled washer towards the front. By removing four screws to rear access panel on the back of washer to gain access to drain pump. Removing drive belt and releasing hose clamps. With socket wrench or nut driver remove three screws to remove pump from washer base. Replaced with new drain pump is a reverse to removing old pump.

Just like the viedo said, release the springs holding the top, remove the screws and replace the hinge. Put the top back on by snapping back into place.

was really easy. I watched the video and was done in less than 10 minutes. I read other stories and pushing the tub over and removing and installing the screws would have been very difficult. Opening the lid was very easy then the screws are right there in front of you.

unscrewed back cover 3 screws then unscrewed 3 screws holding pump, pulled off belt replaced pump, put screws on, and then belt, then turned on machine no problems, put back plate on and it worked ...great job , I did this with 1 are in a sling so that's why it took 1 hour..

Initially, it was uncertain how to remove the front panel. There were hidden clips that I was unaware of. But, the video on partsselect's website was excellent. It gave me the confidence exactly what to component to purchase and how to repair my washer. My repair was identical to the drain pump video and had no issues what so ever.

Disconnected hoses and power cord, pulled washer into hall area, laid towels down to soak up any residual water and tilted washer onto its face or front side. Removed lower panel on back of washer with three screws to expose pump and hoses, removed belt from underneath, removed three screws from pump base with nutdriver and two hoses with spring clamps with pliers. Installed hoses with spring clamps with pliers, slid pump into place per alignment pins on the base, installed the three screws on the pump base with nutdriver, installed rear panel with three screws with nutdriver. Installed belt and titled into upright position, slid back into place, hooked up the hoses then cord and did a load of laundry just like it was new.

Followed video instructions. Most difficult part was re-installing the E-clip on the bearing.