A6498XRS Admiral Range - Instructions

I removed the old igniter, held in place with two screws, pulled the wiring out to get to the clip, and undid the clip. Clipped the new igniter to the wires, pushed back into the hole at the back of the oven, installed the igniter with the two screws, and fires just like new! I had a loose wire on the old igniter and hassled with that for years because I didn't realize how easy the fix was.

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

Replaced the ignition module with one from PartSelect. took care of the problem. They had the part in stock. Great service. Got the part in four days.

I used the advise given in the website and it was very informative- the part was exactly where the folks on the website said it would be and although it wasnt the actual maytag part it was easily fitted by using the wire splices i mentioned and it was shipped quickly The whole process took less the 30 min once received. thank you for a very useful site.

Removed the two screws pulled the element out and unhooked the wires then used one of the included adapters to reinstall the new sensor then screwed the two screws back in to secure the sensor. Everything works fine now.

Removed screws from back right of oven. Found spark module under right side panel of oven. Module connected in a slightly different way, so I had to drill a new hole and use a machine screw to secure it. All wires matched up exactly on new spark module. Replaced side panel, plugged it in and... SPARKS. Cheap and easy replacement and didn't have to call Maytag for repair!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the six wires. Then I repeated those steps in back order. That's it

1) removed oven door (it just lift's up). racks and oven bottom.
2) Removed mounting screws for the igniter.
3) Had to remove oven burner in order to get the insulation out that was packed around the wires. (would have been nice if that was mentioned in the instructions.)
4) Unplugged old igniter and plugged in new one.
5) Reassembled burner and igniter on mounting bracket.
6) replaced oven bottom, racks and front door.
7) Tested oven to make sure it would work for Thanksgiving day...

Pulled stove away from wall to access gas valve in rear. Adjusted the jet on the replacement valve for LP gas and connected the four control wires. Two open end wrenches and one stubby phillips screwdriver were all that was needed.

I replaced the igniter, several people on this site agreed that this is the problem and they where rigth.I t was an easy fix. I live 60 miles from the next town and repair shop. I am out in the Alaska bush and can only get to my place by boat or by floatplane. Thank you all you self fixers for your help.

Watch the video, it's too easy and best of all, the part fixed the oven!

Once I noticed the oven failed to light, I checked the igniter and saw it was glowing. At that point I did some research and found that the igniter could still be bad even though it glowed. This was the most common cause of ovens not lighting. A bad igniter will not glow as bright as a new one. An igniter had to draw a minimum of 2.8 amps in order for the safety valve to open and supply gas to the burner. After checking the safety valve with an ohmmeter, I found it to be good, so I ordered a new igniter. Once I received the new part , it took about 20 minutes to install.

My first suggestion, after turning off the power to the unit, is to take the oven door off. Two simple screws and it's off! It makes getting to the temperature sensor much easier. I also moved the oven out so I could get access to the back to remove the rear panel. The ordered part came with two pigtails, neither of which fit my oven wiring harness. I cut one of them and the wiring from the faulty sensor, spliced them together with wire nuts and made my own connection harness. The new sensor went in with little effort. The wiring went together flawlessly with the spliced connection protected between the oven cavity and rear panel. Reattached the rear panel and the oven door, then slid the oven back into place. Turned on the electricity and back to normal! Problem resolved!!