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Interior light needed replaced
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR UNTIL THE RANGE IS UNPLUGGED AND THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS OFF!!!!!!
Very easy repair, but, either there is a minor amount of current flowing through the element at all times, or the off switch wasn't working when I started. didn't turn the breaker off, after I removed the nuts, as I was pulling the element to reveal the terminals, the terminals arc'd on the oven wall. BIG SPARKS!
After I turned the breaker off and started again. No problems.
Could not find the correct replacements (burners & drip pans)
After months of buying the wrong parts & cost I discovered this site So easy to order & quick delivery, plus very easy installation. Thank you. I also wanted to add that the reps (Tanisha & Matthew) were extremely helpful & informative. I can only hope all the reps equal their performance. I will definitely be using this site, before any other source. Knowledge & cost is also important to me & that need was met. Good job!
This was so easy I should be a repairman! Turned off power at the breaker, used socket to unscrew two hex head screws, pulled out element slowly from the back of oven wall - enough to expose the wires about 3". Used pliers to remove clips from terminals, put new element in, pushed on new terminal clips, fed wires and terminals back through the two holes, replaced the hex head screws, turned breaker on and wallah! My wife was happy! That's a good thing.
I was able to remove the heating element but in the process one of the wires fell behind the back wall of the oven so I needed a little help getting it out. It was my first time working with electricity. If this didn't happen the repair would have been quit easy. The instructions were great.
Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]
Single Heating Element Support Clip was needed to hold up the heating element in the oven. Old single heating element support clip broke and came out of the hole.
Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D
i was really pleased getting the order from partselect. i had torn my oven appart and knew i needed just this one part i came home and ordered it from parts select and actually got the part the next day.... very nice.... so pleased
Replaced the clock control lens with buttons. Saved us from purchasing a new oven. A Sears repair man told us to get model number and look online for the part we needed, and we found PartsSelect. Great! Very happy.
Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.
I ordered the wrong part to start with. (READ CAREFULLY!) I reordered the correct part and it was simple. I unpluged the old element, plugged in the new one replaced the drip pan and trim ring and we were back cooking. Service was fast, lady I spoke with on the phone to exchange parts was knowegable and nice. Great people to deal with.