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Hinge design is weak: Hinge roller wheel splits; it's been replaced twice in last two years
1. Slide oven door off hinge arms and set aside 2. Slide out oven bottom drawer and set aside 3. Detach springs from perforations in stove rails then hinges and set aside 4. Loosen three screws in each hinge, remove and set aside. 5. Remove hinges, threading them out through openings 6. Thread new hinges into stove openings. Align hinge arms with hinge wheels. 7. Align and tighten three hinge screws in each hinge. 8. Re-attach springs to perforations in hinge, then stove rails 9. Slide oven drawer into stove and door into hinge arms
Alarm would sound whenever oven turned on - with an error message code
Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!
I knew the lens (which also holds the light) was broken. I also ordered the light. I flipped the circuit breaker, raised the stove top and removed the 6 nut-head screws holding the cover plate. A nut driver would have been helpful, but I got by with a 6" crescent wrench. I removed the cover. I unplugged the two wires from the old light and plugged in the new one. I inserted the new lens and slipped the light over it. I flipped the circuit breaker on to make sure it worked. After flipping the circuit breaker off, I replaced the cover plates and the screws and lowered the stove top. I flipped the circuit breaker on. It worked!
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
The customer service rep was brilliant in finding the right part number! It was sent the following day (with email to let me know) The part itself was just exactly like the old one. I simply turned off the power, removed the 2 metal screws and unplugged the broken element. The new one fit properly and works like a million dollars. For about $50, you made me look like a hero in my own house! Thjank you
After tilting the oven door out and sliding it up to remove it, I slid the storage drawer our completely from the range. After removing the spring that held the hinge assembly under tension, I removed 3 phillips head screws that held the existing assembly in place and removed it. After verifying the part you sent was an exact match, I reinstalled the new part, fastened the screws, attached the tension spring, installed the storage drawer, and then slid the oven door back in place on the brackets, completing the repair.
The element on our three year old stove stopped working...this was the bottom bake element.
It was surprisingly simple. All I had to do was shut the breaker off to the stove(safety first). Next open the oven door and use a flashlight just to help you see,and unscrew the two screws holding the element in place on the back stove wall. Next slide the stove away from the was to give yourself enough room to access the back of it(you may need to unplug it to get it out far enough. My model had a cover over the back that took six easy to remove screws. Once the back cover was off I could easily see where the element was plugged into, so i removed the wires from the end of the element(just female terminals slipped over the end) i then went back to the front of the stove and pulled to element out.
To install the new one...just guide the two ends throgh the back of the stove...install the two screws to hold it in place...go to back of stove..plug in wires(they were diff sizes so you couldnt mess it up) and put the cover back on..plug in oven..slide it back..and try it out...its that simple
hinge on oven door was broken, so oven wouldn't shut
Lifted door off the front of stove, real easy, but heavy, took out old hinge, and replaced with new hinge, I just looked where everything was before, I replaced with new, replaced door back on, and I was finished.
I followed the way all the others on this website did the repair. It was so easy. I turned the power off to the oven, then disconnected it from the back oven wall, pulled it out a bit, disconnected the wires, and put it back in.
Then we put the power back on and stood back and turned on the stove and IT WORKED!!! Yeah, and for so little money... I tell you I shopped other websites and this one was priced GREAT, and just reading the stories how others had done this repair gave me the confidence to do it too. Now, I think I have a burner that I will replace and who knows what else I can find to do.
1. Turned off electrical breaker for range. 2. Removed the two hex head screws that hold element in place. 3. Pulled element out and unplugged the two electrical connectors. 4. Attached connectors to new element and attemped to push element back into the opening. It would not go in all the way. 5. Apparently some of the insulation had fallen down and was blocking the area where the element slides in. 6. I used a long thin screwdriver inserted into the two holes to push the insulation aside. 7. The element was then able to go in all the way. 8. Replaced two hex head screws. 9. Turned on range breaker. 10. Turned on oven. Works fine.
Flipped off the circuit breaker first. Unscrewed the two screws holding the element in place. Pulled out about 4-5 inches. Tried several times to pull apart the connections, finally got 'em - don't give up (I must have weak fingers). Then plugged in the new element, shoved the wires back in, screwed it back in place, flipped circuit breaker back on, turned the oven on.... made brownies (o:
Oven would not get to temperature...200 degrees max
Pull out oven and unplug from 220 outlet. Remove rear upper/lower cover (4 screws), Remove two wires from rear of element. From front, open oven door, remove two screws and pull out old element. Install new element by reversing above sequence. Then test and push oven back in place. Easy!
Oven door hinge would not allow door to open completely
removed oven door, removed drawer under oven, removed three screws holding hinge assembly, unhooked spring from hinge arm, inserted new hinge arm, attached spring, positioned hinge assembly and replaced screws, reinstalled drawer beneath oven being certain that no pot handles interfere with the hinge spring loaded arm, reinstall oven door.