Before ordering, I took the element out to make sure I could do it. A flashlight was helpful.
I flipped off the circuit breakers to the stove, removed the racks and lifted off the oven door. Not having a nutdriver or socket set, I used a 6' crescent wrench to remove the two screws which hold the element to the back of the oven. I carefully pulled the element out until the spade connectors to the wires were exposed. I wiggled the connectors apart. I had pliers handy, but didn't need them.
I connected the new element to the wires and gently pushed the two connected prongs through their holes, trying not to disturb the insulation. I put a little WD-40 on the screws so they would go in easier. After tightening the screws with the crescent wrench, I replaced the racks and door. I flipped the circuit breaker back on and reset the clock. It works as good or better than new.
F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place, I then pulled the element out about three inches, and it shorted out on the main panel of the back of the range. I then went to the breaker box and flipped the switch so I could tell my wife "Yes, I had turned the power off."
Disconnecting the two wires and reconnecting them was a simple operation after I cleaned my pants from the electrical short.
Re attaching the two-screw panes to hold the element in place finished the project.
Easy Repair. Remove the storage draw under the oven. It lifts out. Lift oven door off of hinges. Remove 3 screws & unhook the spring. Reverse the procedure with the new hinge. Good as new.
1. Turned off power at the breaker box. Removed oven door from oven, and removed bake racks. Determined replacement element from PartSelect was correct. Inspected new element. Using meter, determined new element was OK via continuity test. Gathered all appropriate tools to do the job. 2. Using 1/4" nut driver, removed two retaining screws at back of oven that secure element 3. Pulled bad element out a few inches from oven back to reveal wires and spade connectors 4. Using screwdriver, pushed off electrical connectors from bad element and removed element 5. Inspected wires and connectors and determined them to be OK 6. Installed new element in reverse of above. Inspected oven controls and determined them to be OK. Turned on the breaker. Tested oven. 7. Baked a delicious chocolate cake
.First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and reversed the procedure with the new element very simple.
My dealer was unable to find the part even with a model number. Your accurate drawings allowed me to select correct part. It was a perfect replacement in every way and cheaper (by $10) than the dealer. Also quicker.
