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washer wasn't spinning on final spin
First I found and reviewed videos on line to do the repair for my machine and when I actually did it the videos made it simple to do. Always look for videos of the installation for your machine or appliance and the job will go easy
Removed belt cover from bottom of the transmission , remove old belt, clean the pulleys ,and re install new belt. The new belt fits tighter so it did a few time to get the belt fully seated. Re install belt cover.
I do not know much about washer repair and after watching how to replace the suspension rods I decided it was not as difficult as I thought. I replaced the suspension rods and springs and that fixed the problem. The price for parts was reasonable and I received my parts in 2 days.
The washer stopped draining.All the pump motor did was hum.
I drained the machine and pulled it away from the wall.Then I disconnected the drain hose and removed the back panel.Next,I removed the three screws holding the pump in place and disconnected the power plug from the motor.I then removed the short drain hose from the pump.Installation was the opposite of the removal sequence,and the machine worked fine right after I was done.The new part was identical the the old one,and the job was a snap.
Safety First unplug unit, close water valves, remove upper panel with a 1/4 inch socket. Remove two screws holding the valve unplug 2 wires and replaced valve with the new one And very impressed with the fast quick delivery of the part thank you very much
Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws. Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Washer -Maytag Centennial- would NOT agitate. It would run through all cycles as indicated by the lights and even spin at the end, but never agitated. It also did not appeared to go into "sensing" mode at the start. Took a long time to move from "sensing" light to "wash" light. Did not hear or see a
There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair: >Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain. >Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom. Better than than just laying front of washer on floor. >Used a drop light to help see bottom. >Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut heads. >Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed back down. Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read. this part has been a problem with these washers. >Put Pulley Cover back on. >Reset washer upright. >Reconnected water and power. >Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse" light on and pushed "start" button. >Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin" light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle - "sensing" and in "wash". . Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.
I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.