7MMPM0040VQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I was thrilled that the agitator parts were so easy to replace, but that didn't totally fix my problem. I looked underneath the washer and found black rubber shavings from a worn part and looked online and found that the problem was most likely the Direct Drive Motor Coupling. I watched the video and ordered the part. The coupling was actually broken. After replacing the part, the washer works great...better than it has in years. I think I will work on our dryer now.

Friend of mine did it well

Turned machine on it’s back after removing the hose that goes to the drain, removed the bottom dust guard, I removed the hoses (take a picture before removing things so you know how to orient them when putting it back together) and drained the water first but this is not necessary (there are YouTube videos where they suggest removing the outer case, unclipping the pump and then removing the motor. This would be optimal as you don't need to deal with the water running out of the washer when you remove the hoses). Removed the 4 electrical connectors (multi-plug, 1 x two prong plug and 2 capacitor connector plugs) One of the motor hangers were broken on my machine, I removed the other one and then slipped the motor out. Removed the broken hanger and securing screws and the old rubber grommets, slipped the coupling out (had to leverage out with a large flat screwdriver). Installed new coupling and rubber on the gearbox side, 4 grommets on the motor and the other coupling on the motor. Inserted the hangers on the gearbox side and then mounted the motor. (it is easier if you turn the washer on its back so the drum moves down and gives you more room to drop the motor in from the top), clipped the motor hangers on and fastened the two metal screws, mounted the pump and hoses and reinstalled the dust guard. Turned it right side up and tested before dragging it back into the laundry. Washing again like it did when first bought it in 1998. I would recommend that when a coupling brakes, replace it as well as the hangers and grommets to make sure it has no room for play. Mine broke way too quick as I did the last coupling about a year ago, problem I think was that I had the wrong grommets causing excessive vibration and wear.

We search on line the possible cause for our problem and Partselect offered the possible cause and solution. We watched the video on replacing the water pump.We then ordered the pump and 2 hoses.We followed the instructions and after removing the front panel, we found out one of the pump retainer was rusted away. We tried to look for local supplier and was shock that Sears was charging 20 bucks for a single retainer, which Partselect only charge dollar and eight cents. We ordered the 2 retainers on Thursday and it arrived on Saturday afternoon. We were able to fix the problem and are very happy there was no more leak. I wish the retainers come with the pump even if you include the extra cost to the pump pricing. We could have save the extra shipping charge for ordering the retainers only. I would definitely order more parts from Partselect and recommend it to my friends. Thanks again for your help.

When I pulled the machine out, I noticed one of the suspension springs on the floor. I followed the video supplied by PartSelect.com and suggestions by other folks. I started with the spring that was missing, which was a mistake since I did not know that there are custom spring clips which hold the spring to the drum. Once I found the missing part the installation was very easy. I used the suggestion by another post, of wedging a block of wood between the back of the machine and drum, to relax the rear suspension spring, which eliminated having to remove the back of the machine or tipping the machine on the back to get at the screw. I will always look to PartSelect.com for any future appliance repairs. You are the greatest

Took apart machine exactly as described in the Direct Drive Motor Coupling Replacement Partselect video. Once I lifted out the motor it was clear that the motor coupling was at least part of the issue because it was in place but broken in pieces. I replaced the 2 plastic couplings and the rubber piece and put the machine back together, as described in the video. Afterwards, the spin cylce worked great, quiet and fast as ever. Very happy I did this myself I'm pretty sure I saved a few hundred bucks vs. a repair tech coming to the house. Note that the new couplings require some tapping in order to sink into place.

I watched the how-to video twice and the repair was just like it. My only tip would be to have a pan or floor drain nearby to empty the drain hose prior to tipping the machine on its back.

After i pulled the motor off the washer, i found the coupling that was busted,removed it and put on the new one i got from you and just put everything back together again and the machine is operating as good as new again.

well my Dearest Kenmore washer was vibrating badly so i looked the part in yoursite of parts select it diagnosed it i ordered the 2 different supension pads relaced then and now my Dearest kemore washer works like new again Thankyou Parts select for all your help and the price was perfect...

Followed an online video. Very informative.

Pulled off old seal. Snapped on new seal. Takes longer to type it than it did to do it.

Video's on parts select are a big help. Just followed the instructions. Only slight problem was the coupling's do not slide easily onto the shafts. I had to use a little lubricant and put a wood block across the opening and tap with a hammer. Maybe a little more than a tap. Also when I was ready to test the repair I found the washer would not stop filling. After much checking I found out on another repair site that the shutoff requires a certain water pressure to work properly. I hadn't opened the faucet fully. Once I did everything worked properly.

So easy it's ridiculous, take the old one off, put the new one on! Can't say I love doing laundry, but I love my new washer lid seal! :)

The most difficult part was aligning the two sides of the coupling. Disassembling the motor from the transmission was a snap. The replacement coupling was of higher quality than the original. It had metal bushings in the center holes, where they interface each driveshaft. The original did not. It was plastic.

The repair went very well as per the video, however the metal reinforced coupling only went onto the shaft half way. To ensure the coupling was flush with the top of the shaft I has to use a hammer and tamp the coupling onto the shafts. If you left it halfway on the shafts there was no room for the rubber spacer between the couplings. Other wise it operates very well.