7MMPL6000TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Followed partsselect video repair guide... it went super.

Watched the video and it was very straight forward, very easy and time saving. I just wish the delivery time for the part was that fast (It was a quick delivery).

Seal on the lid split. New seal easily replaced. It just snapped into place.

After watching the repair video by partselect.com I followed the directions exactly. It turned out to be a piece of cake. I found out that partselect.com has many, many do it your self repair videos on youtube.com. I intend to use them for future repairs. Thank you partselect.com.

Determined based on some Internet searches that the part that we needed was the motor coupling; washer would not spin or agitate. Once I figured out how to removed the cover (by the way, one of the guys at an appliance store told me how to do it), and reviewing the video on your website, I removed the two screws and four clips, dropped the motor, inserted the parts and put it back together - all in about 15 or 20 minutes. It was easy and clean and the washer worked again. Hopefully go for another 5-10 years. Thanks.

went to you tube and watched a video on how to take it apart and replace the clutch assembly.

So, the instructional video was great but be warned that you REALLY need to hammer the part into place. Basically hammer it into place so that the end of the shaft that it goes on is flush with the plastic piece of the coupler on both ends. Otherwise, you'll put the washer together and run a load and it'll squeal and smell like burning rubber. We had to take it apart like 3 times before we got it on there securely enough. We would then run an empty load and it would be fine but as soon as we would add clothes the squealing and burning would ensure. So, my advice is to hammer it in well and save yourself the time and struggle!

With no broke springs I thought that they might be weak so I ordered them but didn't install them as I found that the basket had a drag at one point of turning it, so I took it down to the clutch and found the nylon arm that released the brake had the small pins broken off. This would cause the brake to not release full enough that the eccentricity in it had a drag spot during the spin causing tremendous vibration. To disassemble I took the transmission off and the basket off and install new clutch assembly with the basket laying horizontal on a table. I did notice that the new clutch only had three pads on the band and the old one had six. I called you back with no satisfaction, but was given the phone # of the manufacturer and they confirmed that theirs had six pads but the part # checked out so I installed it. It now sits basically still during a cycle. I made and supervised the making of parts in a machine shop all my working carrier and I don't understand the weak link of the nylon pins milled / molded on a part that takes a lick from the actuator every cycle. It appears to me it was made to break, but it is about 20 years old. Thanks for your video help on the tube. Fred

changed parts easily, following the video. Problem was the BRAKE CAM DRIVER, the plastic piece that fits around the shaft near the drum. The old one was visibly torn up, the pegs worn off, the whole thing worn down. The problem with the repair was the video showed an "E ring" holding it on and my washer had no E ring, had nothing hold it. It just sat there. Installed it anyway, although I was worried it was too loose. Sure enough there was a problem. it spun initially then started that ugly clicking noise. turned off washer immediately, disassembled again, and prayed. I found a large flat washer to take up the slack between the clutch and the plastic brake cam driver, reassembled, tightening the nuts a fair bit tighter than before. both the nuts on the transmission and the nut on top the agitator. works perfect!

Unplug washer. turn hot and cold water off. disconnect and mark water hoses. put a blanket on floor and lean washer on its back. use screw driver to remove metal clamps from water pump. use ratchet or nut driver to,,remove screws from metal clamps on motor.remove metal clamps with screw driver. unplug wire harness from motor. remove motor and remove old drive coupling and repelace with new part.

Removed the the drain hose from the pump. Removed nut from the agitator. Then laid the washer on its back after removing the inlet hoses. took out the pump, remove wire harness from motor then removed the motor. removed the three bolts holding in the the transmission. The one mistake I made was that I removed the springs for the brake shoes and this cause me to have a lot of trouble trying to put them back on. Once the clutch arrived, I removed the old clutch from the transmission shaft, and installed the new clutch using all the parts that came with it. Then put everything together in the reverse order that they were removed in.

... exactly as shown in the video in addition to shutting water, removing hot & cold lines & waste tube. I was amazed at how fast the parts were delivered in two days regular shipping. Machine now purring a wifey happy once again! Thanks for the great service & video! I recommend PartSelect highly! WSD

Followed the instructions given in the video. Exactly as per video instructions.WATCH THE INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEOS!!

Installed new clutch assembly and while I was at it replaced the Motor Coupling. Actually, I had a good time doing the repair. I am almost 80 years old, so had to have help laying the washer on backside. Got a small stool from which to work (back problems). The only thing I found the least bit difficult was reinstalling the retaining clip for the clutch assembly. The rest was a piece of cake. Were I to do the same repair now, it would take less than 30 minutes. Washer works like new now. Very proud of what I was able to accomplish. Of course, need to watch the repair video so you will know where to start.

I went to you tube and watched a video on how to take my machine apart.Everthing went great.I did need to buy a spanner for $23.00 @ an appliance store.