7MMGE9959TW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I first pulled the drum and turned on the dryer. The igniter never turned on. So I unplugged the dryer from the outlet and measured the resistance of the igniter, which was ok. I pulled the back panel and checked the thermal fuse, which was open. I also pulled the lint system plenum off of the unit, which was clogged with lint. This probably caused the thermal fuse to overheat. I cleaned out the lint collection system, replaced the thermal fuse and re-installed the drum. dryer is now working fine.

the repair was an easy fix, I removed the two screws from the brackets holding the coils, disconnect and removed them installed the new coils connected plugs turned on dryer and I got heat not bad at all thank you for the help

After researching the problem, I thought the solution would be to replace the two terminal coil valve, but wasn't 100% sure it wasn't the 3 terminal coil, so I bought both. the dryer is 13 years old so I thought it deserved new coils. My husband was away for the week and I had about 10 loads of laundry to do. I dreaded the thought of going to the laundromat, so I went ahead and ordered the parts, thinking I would call a handyman to install them once they arrived. However, I found a Youtube video showing exactly what I had to do and thought it looked easy enough. I unplugged the machine, removed the front hatch and the 2 small screws holding the coils in place. I unplugged the old coils, used a vacuum to remove the dust in the area and installed the new coils. I popped them back into place, screwed them in, replaced the hatch, plugged the machine in, and VOILA!!!! A dryer that heats!!!!

As per video instruction that came with the email order conf

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

Followed instuctions on video accept our appliance was the Duet HT model so we had a glass window to deal with. Just a few more screws to keep track of but otherwise a very easy repair.

Replaced the thermistor, thermostat, moisture sensor and the moisture sensor wire harness and the problem did not clear up. Tested both coils on the gas valve and the ohms readings for all 3 tests were within range. The burner would light and work until it shut off for the 1st time, it would attempt to relight but the gas valve would not open. Replaced the coils with Part # PS334310, 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit and the problem was corrected.

replaoed igniter ,easy to do after watching video

ordered new latch. Arrived promptly. Installed in 5 minutes. Actually easied than the video. Thanks

Initially diagnosed the failure mode as a faulty thermal fuse and when the fuse was replaced was encouraged to find the heat working...then it shut off again. After a period of time that the dryer was off the heat would come back on. After reviewing the site extensively I found a description of the failure mode similar to mine and determined to replace the 2-terminal & 3-terminal coils (kit is less expensive than either by itself). My older Whirlpool dryer needeed to have the top panel removed in order to get to the front panel screws and once the front panel was removed the coil assembly was pretty easy to identify. The retention "plate" was attached via screws that were a little tough to get to but an offset phillips screw driver did the trick. The coils were "keyed" in such a way that they would only insert one way to be properly oriented. So I've earned my appliance repair merit badge.

The Door Catch Kit had clear instructions for installation and included multiple replacement catches to fit several different sizes/varieties of dryers. I used a screwdriver to pry out the broken door catch, popped in the replacement, and was done! As usual, PartSelect had what I needed at a good price, with clear instructions for any needed installation. Fast shipping, too.

First I changed the thermal fuse. Still did not heat up. Then changed the heater element. That fixed the problem.

The thermal cutoff kit was bad. I followed the instructions in the video on the website to repair the dryer. According to some extra research that I did, the heating element is protected by the thermal cut off kit so there is a greater chance that the thermal kit will need to be replaced before the element will. There is a chance that the element could go bad, but more than likely it ise thermal cutoff kit.