7MMGE9959TB0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

two screws on lint screen push up top two screws on front cover. two screws on coils lift coils off put back together. less than 10 minutes. all done

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

Undo 2 screws take units out, clean a little, install new parts and screw down, done, great site !!!!!

Pulled the old one out, took the duck tape off (haha) and snapped, pushed the new one on. Piece of cake. I then noticed that this is a movable door ,and ther was the same part on the other side, oh well now I still have a spair.

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.

Replaced Lint Screen

The repair went very smooth. I was able to follow the directions on partselect and had the repair done in 15 minutes. I took extra time to test the continuity on the ignitor and fuses. I also used the shop vac to clean out the inside of the dryer. The best part I liked about this web-site is the fact that once I described the problem I was told that the "M" series style coil was the fix 90% of the time! $27.70 including shipping was all it cost to make my clothes dryer work like it did the first day we got it!!

Wouldn't have had a clue how to gain access to the coils without online instructions. It actually took longer to open the front of the unit than it did to replace the parts. Following the online instructions I removed two screws under the lint trap door. I then used a stiff putty knife under the left and right front corners of the lid to release the top, which I tilted back. Per the instructions I easily located the two screws releasing the front of the dryer. You have to lift the drum a bit to release the front panel. Once removed I was able to remove and replace the failing coils and then reversing the steps to put it all back together. An easy job and the dryer is back in shape.

All went very easily

unscrewed the 2 screws holding the coil's in place took wires off one coil at a time tested coils with ohm meter found the two wire coil was bad replaced and scered the bracket that holds the coils back in place.PartSelect gave me a list of what was causing the problem and what the % of what was the cause,this helped alot Thankyou PartSelect

I'm a 65-year-old woman with no prior appliance repair experience. I learned on the web that 30% of the time, the failure-to-heat problem is caused by the valve coil, and 30% of the time, it's the cycling thermostat. So I ordered both parts. I watched installation videos on the web. The valve coil was accessable through a front port on the dryer so I started there. I had to go buy a stubby screwdriver because access to the screws was limited. From there, it was easy to take out the old valve coil and install the new one. Just 5 minutes. I plugged in the dryer again, turned it on, and it worked.

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!