Models > 7MMGD0600TB1 > Instructions

7MMGD0600TB1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 7MMGD0600TB1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 7MMGD0600TB1
76-90 of 308
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Dryer motor bearings failed. Motor wouldn't start.

  • Customer: Mark from Maple Valley WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Disassembled dryer. That was the hard part. Figuring out how to get the top off the dryer so I could get the drum out took the most time. The end caps on the control panel had to be removed by forcing them outward to release the plastic catches. Then the bottom corner screws were removed to allow the panel to swing up out of the way. The top panel could now be removed. To gain access to the belt and tensioner the blower and ducting off the front of the motor had to be removed to remove the belt. Now the drum was able to be lifted out. The motor swap was a cinch with no wiring modifications required. Reassembly was the reverse, with the most difficult thing being tightening up the blower fan. This required putting a wrench on the belt end of motor shaft and holding it while reaching thru a narrow gap on top of the fan ducting.

Rear dryer drum seal came out

  • Customer: William from Pontiac MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.

The door will not latch tightly.

  • Customer: John from Syracuse NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced both the door strike and the female portion. The door still does not close tightly. Heavy, wet items also knock the door open.

When using the dryer the cycle would stop and display E1 as the reason

  • Customer: Joyce from Holbrook NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

gas drier would not heat

  • Customer: DALE from HOPE HULL AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
i read some of previous customer problems and fixes pulled the front cover off found coil's location when i turned on drier you could see the ignitor getv hot but burner would not ignite unless i put a little pressure on secondary coil when i let go of coil flame would go out. ordered 'M' series new style coil kit came in in about three days installed parts drier workng good i would reuse parts select agian thanks

Dryer would heat up at start then go cool

  • Customer: Richard from Palos Hills IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Really an easy fix. 2 5/16" screws hold the cover on below the dryer door. From here it's easy access to the gas element. 2 more screws for the valve cover and disconnected the attached wires to the gas coil valves. slip the news ones in place, re-attach the wires and install the holder.Tested the dryer and it fired right up. Put panel back in place and the wife is happy it didn't cost us more than just the parts. Yep, she's a lucky girl. ;0)

Dryer got hot then heat would shut off

  • Customer: Douglas from Fernley NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

gasket came off lent filter

  • Customer: stephen from langley KY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
i could not find this part anywhere locally,so i found this web site which had this part.i ordered this part and am very glad i did.i received it in 2 days.thank you very much.if you need anything check this place first,you will be very satisfied.

No Heat

  • Customer: Ken from Bixby OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!

No Heat from dyer

  • Customer: Jeff from Livermore CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Well, this is quite easy really. I found the problem after plucking and chucking a few parts but it was finally the igniter that was the problem. After taking the front section panel off to access the components, take the time to unscrew the igniter and see if it is cracked. That is what happened to my unit. I replaced to the new M series coils as well but the issue was the igniter. Look very carefully for a crack, the one on my unit was very small. You can ohm it out with a meter and if it reads open it is cracked.

belt was cracking and dryer was somewhat noisy

  • Customer: Melody from Silverton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

not drying all the way, not getting hot enough

  • Customer: robert from cedar lake AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on

Old lint filter was broken

  • Customer: Earl from Santa Ana CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Just replaced the old lint filter.

Gas Dryer wasn't drying my clothes

  • Customer: Marika from Mount Kisco NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
When you open the door to the dryer there are 4 screws you need to remove (2 on each side) in order to remove the front panel. Once I removed the front panel I then turned the dryer on to see what was happening inside. The heating element was turning orange with a glow but the gas wasn't igniting. After looking on-line I figured my next option would be to replace both gas valve coils (one is 2 terminal & the other is 3 terminal). Once you have the new parts & are ready to install them unplug the dryer. All you need to do is first, unplug the 2 plastic sockets that feed the electricity to the coils (they have wires attached to them) unscrew the bracket that holds the 2 coils in place, pull the old coils out & put the new coils in, replug the electric plugs, re-attach the bracket that holds the coils into place, plug in the dryer & turn it on. Test it without the panel on so that you can see that the gas ignites. My husband was very happy when I told him I repaired the dryer - beats paying another repair man.

Dryer would light for 30 secs. & flame would go out

  • Customer: Gary from Springfiled OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Checked ignitor it was working ok, disconnected 3 pronged coil and disconnected 2 pronged coil using multi tester checked continuity on both coils both tested 0,with help of operator ordered M Series new style coil kit. When parts arrived installed coils attached wire harnesses installed bracket and 2 screws that secures coils. Started dryer it worked and stayed working who needs the Maytag Repair Man probably saved about 200.00 between service call and markup on coils. Thanks Virtual Repairman
All Instructions for the 7MMGD0600TB1
76-90 of 308