7MMGD0600TB1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Replacing the filter was easy - the new filtes's seal seems much more secure. The new one works much better than the old one.

My husband changed the idler pulley. It took him 5 min. Thank you sooooooooooo much. Saved us 1000.00 dollars. He wanted to by a new one but investigated the problem on line. He is a handyman and was just being lazy. I ordered the part and he fixed it. I love saving money!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I love my husband!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It was a fairly simple repair to perform with the dryer in place. I simply opened the bottom/front access panel to start, the door removes if you pull up after opening. Then I disconnected the two and three wire connector to the two coils. Next I removed the bracket screws that fasten the coils to the valve assembly. This was a little difficult with the screw closest, because of the small clearance and #1 sized phillips(stubby would work well.) The rear screw I managed to remove by using both a small flathead screwdriver(hex shaped shaft) and an adjustable cresent wrench. At this point, it was a simple matter of installing the new coils and the bracket, and then reconnecting the two plugs. It almost made me want to do laundry.

Took out the old one and put in the new one.

Parts Select said 27% chance it was the coils and 26% chance it was moisture sensor. I ordered the coils and it did not fix the problem, my luck. I have now ordered moisture sensor and the next possible part, the cycling thermostat. If one of these solve the problem I will still have much less invested than a repairman would charge.

Downloaded a schematic of the dryer controls. Watched a UTUBE video of how to remove the front panel of a Maytag Performa dryer. It was pretty easy. Consulted your website and found out that bad coils are typical of the symptoms 46% of the time. I have bought parts from you before and happy with results.

noticed that male half was in good working order, so I just snapped in the new female half; without any tools. easy repair!

easy as pie !

Followed troubleshooting steps. Checked thermal fuse (shorted)- OK. Checked igniter (about 70 ohms) - OK. checked flame sensor - (open) BAD (should read shorted). This part is normally shorted then opens when the igniter gets hot causing it to open and thus turns on the gas flow. An open flame sensor does not permit the igniter to turn on.

Found this part on your site very EZ bought it you shipped to my door got it when you said it would be here open it installed it propblem over glad i found you guys will use again Very good website Keep up the good work THANK YOU

We did repair by first watching a you tube video, then jumping in an dgoing step by step through the video. While not exactly the same dryer, the steps were in sequence. We thoroughly sleaned out the dryer with the tub out before reassembly. Th eonly slightly tricky part was putting front piece back, but once we mad esure ot align the sides for squareness the dryer went back together smoothly, execpt for one dropped screw. that was fished out through the bottom panel. The dryer runs quietly and we can watch TV with the door open to the laundry room again. I should have done this a long time ago. It started out by sqeaking at startup, then grew worse over time. I recomend anyone with a friend should be able to do this. Now with Cell phone pictures it is even easier to remember where the screw go.

removed front cover and turned unit on, igniter would glow red but burner would not start. ordered m series new style coil kit and installed. turned unit on and igniter came on and burner started right away. all thanks to parts select trouble shooting guide.

when I see its no gas flame, i deduct the flame sensor and the electric coils not fuction, I order tru partselect and that take me like 30 min. to remplaced those parts.

removed old one installed new one.

Just like the instructions. Piece of cake.