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Models > 7MMGD0100TQ1 > Instructions

7MMGD0100TQ1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 7MMGD0100TQ1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 7MMGD0100TQ1
76-90 of 351
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Dryer would shut off mid way through cycle and give an E1 error code

  • Customer: Dwayne from Bainbridge, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.

The door will not latch tightly.

  • Customer: John from Syracuse, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced both the door strike and the female portion. The door still does not close tightly. Heavy, wet items also knock the door open.

The dryer door latch was broken.

  • Customer: Jack from Memphis, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

Lens melted because paper got behind the lens and was heated by the lamp.

  • Customer: Chris from Valley Stream, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1 screw to replace.

No heat...

  • Customer: Charles from Long Beach, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Gas dryer would not heat - pilot lit briefly then went off

  • Customer: William from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Same as others.
1. Unplug dryer from power source
2. Use nut driver to remove two front screws at bottom of dryer
3. Disconnect cable connected to Secondary Coil (this is the coil towards the rear of the dryer)
4. Use angled phillips screw driver to loosen screws holding cap on top of the two coils. (Angled tool not required but seemed easiest to me)
5. Slide top cap back towards lock screw to allow coil to be lifted out
6. Remove and replace secondary coil
7. Replace cap, tighten screws to lock in place, reconnect cable to coil
8. Restore power to dryer, test and confirm gas flame stays lit
9. Replace lower front panel on unit

PartsSelect a great resource to use for home repairs like these. My first time using site and doing this type of work, now PartsSelect my first source to go to on such items.

No Heat sometimes, But for a moment then None

  • Customer: Scott from Sacramento, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First and Foremost i was told that my problem was with the Thermal Fuse (Fix Ya.com), Then with the little Electrical knowledge I have thought Fuses don't turn on and off,If the fuse was bad i would get No Heat. (Even for a second) Fuses just don't turn on and turn off intermittently,when they go there done! So after a little research i decided to order the gas coil valve. I tilted the top up, two screws on the front panel, took that off and the valves were exposed,(bottom left) two screws too remove bracket then installed new coils on bracket,put back together and I Have Heat Again! NO problems what so ever since new install. I would say having not been for cleaning lint build up inside the machine (been 6 years) the Whole project took me Ten Minutes.

not drying all the way, not getting hot enough

  • Customer: robert from cedar lake, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on

LP conversion kit

  • Customer: Steve from Brunswick, VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
The design of the dryer did not make the conversion easy, I had to disassemble the entire front end, top and remove the drum. The kit included a new spud that's it (22.00?). Anyway the gas valve is convertible from NAT to LP only requires turning a portion of the valve about 25 degrees. I managed with a screwdriver as I could not locate my snap ring pliers(just moved). The directions were spot on, read them through once before you start.

No Heat

  • Customer: Ken from Bixby, OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!

No heat

  • Customer: James from Randsburg, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I had two dryers, one was gas and the other was electric. The electric stopped heating. So I rolled out the gas dryer, but it was setup for natural gas and at this location, I only have propane. So I changed the jets to work with propane, in the process I broke the igniter, so I replaced that and that made the propane one work. Armed with the knowledge from that job, I took the electric dryer apart located the thermostat and replaced that and low and behold I have two working dryers. One for now and one for an emergency. I only have four screws left over!!!! Jim Cooke

Both outside door handles turned very beige

  • Customer: Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Dryer heat would go off and timer would not move. Dryer would continuously run

  • Customer: chuck from smithtown, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced coils on gas valve.

My drier would start create heat,than stop heating after 8-10minutes.

  • Customer: Tom from Schaumburg, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
After reading the many different common stories,I replaced both coils (m series).Very simply lifted up the top of driver,held by 2 snap springs and 2 lint vent screws.Removed front cover,2 screws and 2 bottom snaps,coils down on bottom left.r/r both coils,reinstalled covers and let there be heat!This website is a blessing!!

Too much drying time, not hot enough

  • Customer: John from Floyd, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the Drier Door and removed the Front Drier Panel exposing the Gas Valve & associated parts. I removed two (2) screws holding the Gas Valve Coils in place & replaced the 2 terminal coil, then replaced the screws, Front Cover & Drier Door. I liked the results so much, I ordered the other Gas Valve Coil and will replace it also when it arrives.

Good trouble shooting information.
All Instructions for the 7MMGD0100TQ1
76-90 of 351