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washer wouldn't agitate
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
A detailed Service Technician Service Manual is hidden inside the machine on the front panel. It is hidden by the bleach dispenser input. It gives a list of fault codes and instructions for calibration after repair, resetting fault codes, and a manual test mode for stepping the machine through each mode on command. The Tachometer failed which would not let the machine come up to maximum spin speed. The tachometer is part of the solenoid actuator that shifts the transmission. It is not specifically called out in the manual. Any failure causes the lid lock light to blink which gives the appearance of a lid lock failure
top half of agitator did not move during wash cycle
pull off softner dispenser, pop off agitator cap by inserting straight screw driver into small slot, remove bolt inside agitator with socket wrench and long extension, pull agitator straight up off shaft, place agitator on floor, with feet holding bottom half pull top half apart from bottom half by pulling straight up, note direction of old cogs remove and replace with new, reassemble
Pulled off the dispenser. Used socket set to remove bolt. Removed entire agitator out of washer. Placed both feet on bottom of agitator and then pulled up on the upper agitator. It took some muscle due to the years of washer use. I used a flat-head screwdriver to weaken the plastic clips holding down the old bearing-driven cam. Once I got the upper agitator off, the guts were easy to pull out. Then I just re-assembled with the 3 new parts (the Cam Driven, the Dog Ears, and the Bearing-Driven Cam).
The instructions that came with the part were worthless. Essentially, unplug, put in new part, plug it back in. I spent a considerable amount of time on the internet and finally found a video showing how to open the top. Unlike other models, it is held down by clamps in the back rather than clips in the front. Once finding this information the installation was simple. Remove the clamps and the back of the console, slide the top forward and lift, remove and replace the lock and reassemble. You don't even have to remove the hoses.
Noise on bottom of Washer louder as time went on. 1 1/2 years
Well, first investigated and found loose nut on drive clutch. First take off the two screws with nut drive then cover off using a screwdriver blade to snap off the cover. Then socket ratchet to take off the nut on drive clutch. take off belt by slowly rotating the drive gear. two screws that hold the electronics to the upper drive clutch and put aside, so you can snap off the cover for drive clutch on upper part with screwdriver and off the parts come and install whole unit back as took it apart. Line up the new upper clutch so that is position as was before. (Using parts diagram helps a lot as www. partsselect.com has for you or Maytag.com.) Then put the electronic part board back on and the gear and nut. Make sure it is tight by several attempts to make sure it's snugged up good and then slowly roll belt back on the pulley and motor drive. Put your cover guard back on with two screws and done.
replaced the agitator cogs, bearing and the O-Ring. I looked all over Houston for these part, but found them on PartSelect. Had them in about 3 days. The repair only took about 30 minutes.
The repair was easy, first you take out the fabric softener dispenser, you will then see a plastic cap at the bottom. the plastic cap pulls right out. Once you remove plastic cap you will see the top of a 11mm screw. Use an 11mm socket with 6 inch extension to remove the screw. The screw is a fine thread so it takes alot of turns to unscrew. After removing screw the whole agitator should pull out of washing machine. The agitator has two parts, lets just say a top and a bottom. Once out of the machine turn the agtitator upside down and tap the top part with a rubber mallet, it will fall off easily and the cam will come out with it. Once you have done this you will see how easy it is to replace the cam and put everything back together. My washer works like new. my only trouble was finding the part, until i found this web-site Part Select, The Whirlpool site did not even offer a diagram for my washer. So thank you Part Select from me and coworkers for the part and fast delivery. I can now wash my clothes again. Yeah !!!
First, I removed the softner cup from the top of the agitator. Second, I removed the plastic seal by pulling it out. I then used a socket to remove the bolt holding the agitator down. I then removed the agitiator from the machine and seperated the upper and lower agitator by placing my feet on the lower agitator and pulling up. The dog-ears were in the upper agitaotr section and easy to see and replace. I re-assembled in reverse order. The whole process took less than 30 minutes.
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.