7GU3200XTSS1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

I followed the attached youtube video. I did not have to disconnect the wire harness. Unplugging the power cord allowed the dishwasher to be removed for repair. The bolt holding the motor in place is somewhat difficult to get to because it is behind a shield. A socket with an extension is necessary. The motor required more effort to dislodge than indicated in the video. Once the bolt is removed and the motor is rotated, wiggling and pulling was necessary to break the seal loose. Be sure to line up the arrows on the motor and collar before reinstalling.

Diagnosing the problem was made easy using the "8 things that could be wrong" if the dishwasher would not turn on in the "Instant Repairman" area. We were going to order the entire module replacement for $141. Then we saw the Q & A link that said the Bi-Metal Fuse had the highest percentage of repairs if exhibiting such symptoms as our machine exhibited. The price of the fuse was $25. WOW what a difference in price and yes, it did fix the problem. The help given through the "Instant Repairman" area of the website saved us from spending $141 when $25 fixed our problem. We have ordered several parts but didn't know about the the "Instant Repairman". We will never again NOT use it to diagnose a problem.

Shut off water,power. disconnect water line,electric,drain.Pulled dishwasher out,laid dishwasher on it's back.Unplugged electric on pump,twisted pump out.Installed new pump and reinstalled dishwasher.

With a flat blade screwdriver, pry up gently on the Upper Rack Track, pull out the end caps, and remove the rack. Pull the Feed Tube down out of the clip in the ceiling, Install the Upper Wash Arm on the Feed Tube, insert the Push-In Screw from below and push the Screw Cover down from above to snap everything together.

I also replaced the Lower Spray Arm Seal. First remove the Lower Dish Rack then remove the Lower Spray Arm by grasping the Lower Spray Arm Support/Hub and twisting the arm counter-clockwise to unscrew it, Pull the arm and hub out, now twist the Rear Feed Cap clock-wise to dislodge the Feed Tube and disconnect the cap. The seal is underneath.

The very first thing to do is watch the online video. That was the most helpful tool. Once we saw how it should be done. We removed the bottom plate and securing screws. Disconnected the water supply line, electric, waste line and pulled the unit on top of the tarp we set down. We then tuned the unit on its side, removed the old motor, greased the new gasket and re installed. The only problems we incurred were minor. The first being that there was still water in the waste line. That was a bit messy but able to deal with. The second was that the 3/8" nut driver was very difficult to get seated on the locking nut. My wife had to actually pull up on the plastic shield in order to insert the nut driver on the nut. Once that was done, it was a piece of cake. Saved ourselves over $700.00 with this repair. Thank you Parts Select.

I had to drill screw heads off then take vice grips to pull out screws......you have to be very carefull not to drill too deep and loose the plastic you need to hold new screws,,,At the cost of these replacement parts I would never do it again,,,,,,,,I would have been happy if the replacement racks were of better quality than the origional racks.

If I can do this you can too. I followed the instructions on this site but the only thing missing was how to pull out a dishwasher from the counter. The dishwasher is held by either two screws at the top that are into your counter but if you have granite they may be held in by two caps on the front side of the dishwasher that you just pop off and remove. Make sure you definately lowere the front of the washer by using a wrench and spinning down the height adjusters on the front of the frame. The next thing is a biggie, find the water supply and if you have a length of flexible hose great, just gently slide it out to reveal spring/pulley assemblies. I had a brass fitting that had to be loosened and pulled back to allow the washer to be pulled out. It was a compression fitting that was easy with a 5/8 wrench. Only slide it out enough to reveal the spring and pulley. Follow the replacement instructions then put it back the same way. Don't spin the height adjusters back up too far or ou will get steam condensation buildup. I did that. I figured I saved at least $200 by doing this very simple repair.

This is the third one that I have fixed in 2 months. This is a very poor design for such high quality, but expensive dishwasher. While installing the new balance link on the third one, I noticed that the design was flawd, so instead of putting more tension on the string than needed, I only looped the string around the bottom roller, instead of looping it in the "s" configuration as shown in most instructions. The door balance kit works perfectly fine this way with less tension. I could be wrong on this, but less tension on this string may help it last longer. These doors are heavy, and there isn't a real big difference from the "s" loop as recommended and the "L" loop as I did. Still works fine.

The door switch did not allow for the dishwasher to reset after washing. It was an easy fix, just remove the top trim panel (6 screws) pull out the switches, replace and reassemble. Just be aware that there two switches two replace.

I loosened the one screw holding on the plastic that houses the tab that holds the spinner in place. Placed my finger between the plastic and pulled down slightly just enough to remove old tab. Place new tab which is small in the hole,you can actually feel it going in the right place. With your finger hold onto the tab and then snap spinner onto tab. Tighten screw back up. Make sure you cover bottom of dishwasher just in case the screw and new tab falls from your hand.

When the new parts arrived, they were the wrong ones. The rollers were much bigger than the originals and would not fit in the track. Fortunately, the actual rollers from the broken part were still usable and we were able, with difficulty, to get them off the broken mount and onto the new mount. We had to use a small plumbing fitting to depress the four-pronged plastic retainer so as to be able to remove the wheels from their original installation. Once we changed the rollers, it was simple to install them back into the dishwasher, and it is working just fine.

Unscrewed the brackets holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Pulled the dishwasher out. Used a impact driver to take out screws for old track roller. Put new track roller in. Pushed in dishwasher and attached brackets.

your video was invaluable and a terrific source of explanation; fantastic customer service!

Pulled motor out replace bearings cleaned up then installed the seals as discribed in your website. This is something my repairman didnt want to do. Only cost me the 50 dollars and a few hours with my brother. LOVE your website. It makes it alot easier to fix and saves me alot of money. Thank you. Debra