7DU900PCDQ1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I unscrewed the old water inlet valve from the frame of the dishwasher so that I could manuever my hand around to the backside where the rubber hose was connected. That was the easy part. I then had trouble holding the old valve while trying to unscrew the hot water copper tubing so I screwed it back on the frame. My dishwasher is close to 18 years old and I think that was part of the problem. After soaking in WD40, I finally got the valve out. Then I had to remove the "L" shaped connector to put on the new valve. Everything went back together a lot faster and it's like I have a new dishwasher again. By the way, I am a 53 year old female so that may be why it took me so long.

Removed 5 or 6 screws replaced O ring,Srewed cover back on ,no more leak.

Removed dishwasher, take to garage, removed lower rack to gain access to top of motor unit. Used star socket wrench to remove upper screws holding top of unit in. Disconnect wires, drain tube and counter weight. pulled motor unit out from inside dishwasher and placed on bench. Proceeded to disassemble motor. Some things were obvious, others not so. replaced old worn out parts with new, used a little lube (Vaseline) in places to assist in getting seals back in place. Instructions were of little help need to pay close attention when tearing unit apart. Reassembled with new seals, installed motor and re-installed dishwasher...NO LEAKS!! Wife and I happy.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

There were no instructions with the part, but looking at the old rack it was simple to see how the parts should be assembled. Took the center part from the old rack, twisted off, and applied it to the center of the new rack. Snapped on the wheels and was done. Very simple assembly.

The old gasket came out easily, but had calcium deposits in area. I cleaned the area with vinegar and water and waited until it was completely dry. The new gasket went in very easily and looked great. I started the dishwasher and alas, it still leaks, so the problem was apparently not with the gasket, but some other area. But the gasket is nice and new. Any suggestions on next step0 in troubleshooting?

first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.

Took old basket out and put new one in.
It was the exact basket I needed. No problems!

I first removed the old part. when i removed the old part i could not get the conector piece off when i when to get a new one they told me i should replace the copper tubing with the more flexable tubing because the copper tubing can kink up and possibly break from the kinking. so i screwed the inlet valve on i put teflon tape on the all the threads of the conector piece screwed it into the new inlet valve with and adjustable wrench then i conected the new tubing, and tightend it down with the wrench i slowly turned the water back on to cheak for leaks. When i saw there were no leaks i turned the water on the rest of the way pushed the dishwasher back in and screwed it into place an i was done.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

actually my wife did the repair. she unsrewed the water sprayer and removed it, then unscrewd the star key screws and then replaced the seal. she put everything back the way it was and it is now ready to use and we no longer have the problem.
just a suggestion...if you take some baking soda and some vinager you can clean the drain out. just simply poor in the soda and then the vinager.and it will fiz cleaning your drain.

Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.

Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.

Thanks Partselect.com!

first I removed lower basket. then removed lower sprayer attached to pump housing by unscrewing the cap by hand. the I removed the pump cover . there were six alan screw two of them were missing causing the failure of the seal spraying solution at the door. replaced the pumpseal working backwards until everthing was replaced.

The cap.nozzle is critical in transferring water to the
upper wash tray in the "heavy wash" cycle only. If this part is defective, simply unscrew it by hand and install the new one by hand in seconds. This
part is inactive in the "light wash" cycle.

Look for deteriation in the black rubber area of the
cap. nozzle.

Ordering and tracking the shipment was a breeze,
everything was very easy to do !!!!

I followed the video available on partselect.com and was easily able to follow step by step the process of removing and reinstalling a new Drain and Wash Impeller and Check Ball.