Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad. The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.
The installation of the gas orifice was actually simple. Unscrew the old orifice and screw in the correct orifice. Tricky part of the process was accessing the area of the gas valve.
FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.
Persistent smell of propane despite multiple duct cleanings.
Despite the young age of this dryer, and failure of all the other trials to fix the problem, I figured maybe the igniter is the problem. Ordered one. Followed a U tube video to take the unit apart. Noticed immediately that there was lots of lint pretty much everywhere inside the cabinet. Come to find that the blower and the vent had never been connected, with about two inches gap. So, some of the exhaust was going out the vent hose, but lots was not. In fact, lint had coated the propane jet and the air mixer assembly. Replacing the igniter was not particularly difficult, once the dryer was in lots of pieces. I did not test the igniter before replacing it. I did connect the vent outlet to the blower and secured it. End result was a perfectly functioning unit and a happy wife. I don't recall reading about this as a possible cause of propane odor and failure of the unit to heat up.
To install the repair part took about 5 minutes. It took a couple hours to take apart of put back together. Unfortunately the part I replaced was not the problem. I still have no heat. My own fault for not testing the parts before ordering. It seems there is no ignition of the gas for the hot air flow. I would be grateful for any suggestions. The video was FABULOUS...really step by step, screw by screw. Thanks for that. Barb Swenson
I took the top off, I disattached the front and took the front top of dryer off, taking the front of dryer off, detached the belt and took the drum out, found the wheels took the plastic triangle off and took the wheels off and replaced wheels, then did everything in reverse and no more thumping. just remember to unplug unit before working on it. And also Part Select is a very good site and place to get parts, very fair priced and very professional.
I had ask how to get the top off., it was simple ,take 3 screws off the bottom angle bracket .and slide top back about 2" then lift.then remove the front panels. '
Removed Top, then front and drum. Parts easy to access once drum is out. Recommend reading up on drum replacement. Would appear that all repairs will require taking it out.
Inland Commercial Appliance from Moreno Valley, CA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers
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Lint and guide filter had become damaged
Really easy to do! Unscrewed 4 screws, pulled flap on bottom of inside guide out. Then gently shake assembly to loosen from dryer and pull up and out! Then based on the assembly can replace front or back or both. They snap together! Put assembly replacement back in and close flap and secure in place with the four screws.
First I just replaced the ignitor on a hunch, (disassembly was easy once I saw the video) I also examined the high limit thermostadt and found it was tripped, so I reset the button. the dryer fired up, but soon the thermo tripped again. I found that I could reach it with my arm placed in the inspection port,( about a 4 inch diameter pop out) make sure you unplug first, find the button near the ignitor, and pop it in. the high limit thermo was only holding a few seconds, so I decided to replace it, and did a "shot-gun" approach, replacing all thermos and thermisters at once, only about 35 bucks delivered...BTW, PartSelect shipped them to me at the speed of light.....one day ! Ireplaced all thermos and did and extra scrulpoulous cleaning of the vent. NOTE: it is completely possible that ahe only problem was a reduced vent capacity cmbined with summer heat leading to tripping the high limit thermo....however the thermo was tripping waaaay too easil in my opinion. Anyway, I celebrated doing 10 loads of piled up laundry, and basking in the glory of my wife's admiration for saving a $1000. appliance replacement. "how did you know how to do this honey?" "yoir so smart" (i did'nt tell her about the PartSelect video)
You will need a helper. Dismantle the Dryer: Remove the screws that hold the top cover, front control panel, front door and front panel. Release the V-Belt under the drum. Remove the Drum. Removed and replace the 2 Front roller assemblies - these were completely worn. Replaced the 2 rear rollers (did not replace the rear roller axels as these were more difficult to remove and they were in good shape) and the V-Belt while I had the whole thing open. Use a shop vac and cleaned up the whole unit. It is so nice and quiet now.