79573252300 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Went on line to see how difficult it would be to replace the valve. Through Google there was a video which showed in exact detail how to remove and replace the valve. Then went on line to find the replacement part which was readily available. The only problem was that the connection on the valve where the fill water enters the valve was larger than the old valve. To fix that I went to a local Ace hardware store and found a nut that would fit the valve connection. Also don't forget to use a compression ring to keep the fill line secured when replaced.
Over all it was very simple and was in my "pay grade"

In plug refrigerator. Pry old switch out with flat blade screwdriver. Disconnect wiring from old switch and plug into new switch. Push back into refrigerator. Plug unit back in. Lights and fan should now work. Check for cold air coming out in freezer.

Used a screwdriver to remove covers. Used a blow dryer to defrost coil in freezer. Cut zip tie and removed old controller assembly. Inserted new controller assembly and secured with zip tie. It took 24 hours for the fridge to cool completely. Now it works fine.

I removed the old water valve, disconnected the water tube going in and tube going out to the back of the refrigerator. New water valve bracket different than the previous one which resulted in my having to modify it to fit. Not an easy task as it was preformed metal. Once hooked up, water turned on, and ice maker turned on, the sound I'm getting now is clunking and not making ice. My debate is whether or not to purchase a new ice maker or revert to the tried and true method with ice trays which work every time.

Pulled the fridge out of its space. Removed a metal shield which covered the bottom 12" of the fridge with a Philips head screw driver. The water valve is on your right. turned off the water to the supply line. Removed the supply line using an adjustable wrench. Removed the water line gong from the pump into the fridge. It is held on with a "C" clip which can be pulled off with needle-nose pliers. Removed the old pump, held with one Philips head screw. Then installed the new pump, reconnected the lines, replaced the metal shield and turned the water back on. Vacuumed the fridge and its space before cleaning up. The ice-maker now works perfectly.

I was told the mother board went out. Took a few months to finally get one myself after repairman didn't come through. It turned out not to be the motherboard that sears repairman tested it for and said that's what it needed. I found Parts select after going round and round with sears parts refusing to accept return. There prices were better, as well as shipping and it came so quick i thought it was over night. The controller assembly was not the problem so we have it for a spare now. It was the freezer fan but even after installing it nothing would work is why we ordered the controller assembly. after 2 days and about 7 hours of checking, taking apart, rechecking assembling by my determined electrician it turned out to be a loose wire. LOL hope this helps someone. I'm just glad to have my fridge again! Blessings!!!

I removed the cover from the rear of the unit, with a screwdriver. Then with a adjustable wrench unscrewed the top nut of the water valve.I then removed the screw holding the valve to the wall of the fridge. Turned the valve upside down and removed the line going up to the ice maker. No tools needed here as it is a quick connect fitting.Use reverse order to install valve.I am 65 years old and if I can do this anyone can. Good luck from TX.