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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
My burners would not light. There wasn't the tell tale "click, click, click" of the spark module.
First I had to slide the stove out of its cubby and then I removed the two screws holding on the shield. I next removed the wires going to the spark module. I removed the top screw and loosened the bottom one. Installed the new spark module in reverse order. Less than 15 minutes for whole repair. Still have problems with spark module not working if oven is on, but I think it is because there is no air circulation behind the stove.
I removed the broiler burner assembly held in by 5 screws across the inside top of the oven, as I removed the assembly the igniter slid out from the back of the oven and was attached to the assembly with a cannon plug, I disconnected the cannon plug and removed the whole assembly out of the oven and replaced the igniter which was attached by two screws and reassembled in the oven. Where I live in remote Alaska calling a repair technician is not an option, either figure it out or have a new appliance barged in.
Warning- we found a lot of bare wires in this stove, check your wires before replacing the bad switches. I lifted the top, disconnected the power, pulled off the knobs, unscrewed the switch for the back light, removed seven screws to finally get the front panel off. Once you have the front panel off, changing the swich takes less than a minute. The switches just slide off the gas valve stems. Instructions show how to line up the new D-shaped switch mechanism to match the D-shaped shaft. Gently pull the two wires off the old switch and slide onto the new switch. Then put the panel back.
tHE ORIGINAL MODULE DIED AFTER 21 YEARS OF SERVICE
First had to move the stove out of its "nest", take the side cover off, remove 1 screw and loosen the other , take the old module out and reverse the operation. That simple. Part was supplied 1 day before promised date, awesome. Part fitted exactly as the OEM part, works like a charm, everyone happy.
2) Remove oven door. There requires that you remove the two square drive (SD) bolts on the inside, partially close the door and lift it off the hinges.
3) Remove the grills.
4) At the back remove the rear shield (aluminum panel held by 2 SD sheet metal screws.
5) this exposes the broiler igniter and its two wires. If its been replaced in past, there should be two porcelain screw-on wire connectors. Undo the connectors by turning them counter-clockwise. With a volt-ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the igniter. If its open circuited, its broken. If not, then its in the circuit board, and this help stop here. If this is the original igniter, it ends in a plastic connector. Disconnect by pulling it apart from its mating plug and again, check the continuity of the igniter. If its defective, reconnect the connector and cut each wire on the igniter side. Strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation on each lead.
6) inside the oven, using the SD driver, remove the 4 screw securing the broiler burner from the roof of the oven. The burner can now be removed, pulling the burner away from the gas jet on the right.
7) The igniter is now exposed and can be remove by removing the two SD drive screws.
8) Replace with the new igniter, being careful not to touch the black element, and feeding the wires though the rear oven wall.
one of the burners broke of the assembly and would'nt light anymore.
I went on line looked it up, ordered it, it came within 2 days. I then removed 2 screws with a philips head screwdriver popped out old one, replaced with new one, put the screws in, turned it on , and it worked! As a women I was thrilled to do this myself.
This hard to find GE part number was easy to find at PartSelect.com. The GE dealer said the part was permanently out of stock. Lift lid and remove a few screws and pull off two wires and replace switch plate and reconnect everything. Good to go.
