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Oven wouldn't operated. Error code F9
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.
took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.
The burner would not light by itself, and the flame was lopsided.
The repair was nothing, but the diagnosis was a bit tricky. After carefully looking at the burner head, (cast aluminum) I pretty much figured out that the 4 small cast aluminum bumps that keep the burner cap positioned up in the air the correct amount to allow gas to flow under the cap, were worn down, preventing the gas from exiting properly by the igniter. My guess was correct. The new burner head solved all my problems. I love Parts Select for the ease of finding the correct parts and how fast they ship their orders. Great company, great service. Keep up the good work
oven would not heat up error code F10 showing on veiw screen
move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull old probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps
replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
Oven ignitor is on the bottom gas unit. Ignitor is in oven and plug is in warmer oven on left wall at very back of warmer oven. It has duel function to light both upper and lower gas burners (in oven). Wires of new plug that I received were shorter than existing wires and would not reach the plug from ignitors center mount location to plug at far back of warming unit on left wall. Even if the wires would have been long enough, I couldn't figure out how to "release" the existing plug. Easy solution: Cut old wires at junction of old ignitor (leaving wires as long as possible). Cut new wired as close to new male plug as possible (leaving wires as long as possible on new ignitor). Strip ends of old and new wires and wire nut with porcelin wire nuts (hardest part of job was locating porcelin wire nuts)! After placing wires out of the way of burner and ignitor, reassemble stove parts. AVOID touching new element as oil from hands will decrease the life of the element. Good Luck..
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....