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Internal door open lever broke
Remove microwave from wall, removed outer cover which allowed access behind the control panel, was then able to take out the broken lever and with a little maneuvering was able to replace it with the new one. The whole process took less than an hour and was easy to accomplish.
Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws. Saved $150 on a service repair call.
unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!
Push Button does not open door very well because door latch plastic is starting to split
Plastic trim on inside of the door pops out if you pry with a flathead screwdriver. Then lift door latch out of place and carefully remove the spring. New latch goes back in the way the old one came out. Door trim pops back in.
Oven wires arced and caused the terminal block to melt and become detached from the back of the range
Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely. Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the oven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.
This is an OTR microwave oven, needs to be removed to diagnose problem. I did not diagnose problem properly, I searched online for possible causes, read that (99%)percent of the time the interlock switch was bad and replacement should solve my problem. It was also stated to be an easy fix,15- 45 minutes depending on ability. I ordered the relay switch. Took the oven down then removed outer shell. With my multimeter I began to test, fuses(2), interlock switches(3)and transformer. 3 interlock switches were ok, fuses were fine, and had power to the transformer, meter could not read output of transformer because of high voltage, (2300v). I'm down to magnetron (about a hundred bucks) or the touch pad/ circuit board. I have a countertop micro that I'm putting in place of the OTR. As far as Partselect, my item was shipped and delivered on time, instructions for changing that part was quite accurate. Would order from here again, just do my homework first.
0. Turn off breaker to oven 1 Remove two screws holding oven into enclosure. 2. Remove trim piece from bottom. 3. Open oven door, and engage part on hinge which keeps door from closing all the way. Now, door can be lifted and removed, set aside. 4. Slide oven out. This is very heavy, and it's best to have two people as well as something slightly lower than the oven to put it on, I used a chair. 5. Remove microwave trim, 4 screws. 6. Remove baffle which protects microwave power cord. 7. Loosen 4 screws from bottom of microwave. I used a Screwdriver bit with a pliers, as there isn't much room. Slide microwave forward or back, and microwave can be lifted from oven. 8. Remove 4 screws on side, 2 security Star screws on bottom of back, and 3 regular screws on back. 9. Remove top heat shield, and top/sides cover. Danger, do not plug in microwave with top/side cover missing. Also, capacitor on right/back may hold dangerous voltages, short the terminals using well-insulated tool. There is a bleed resistor which is supposed to do this, but you can never be too careful. 10. Open microwave drawer. Unscrew the front control panel from the inside. Remove plastic part the door open button usually moves, the part needs to be pulled to the left side to be removed. Take a picture of the wires attached to the switches on the latch plate, so you put them back correctly. 11. Remove wire connectors from switches. These connectors have a retaining feature, if you push the retaining feature, it doesn't take too much force to remove it. There are 6 wires. Remove the latch plate, there may be a screw or two. 12. Take note of which switches are normally own and normally closed. They have to go back the same way. I mainly took out the latch plate because the switches stopped working, a couple had welded themselves together internally. But, I had to replace the latch plate because I improperly removed the switches and broke the plate. The switches are held in place by a pin through the switch, a couple of static parts from the latch plate, and a tab which sticks up from the bottom of the latch plate. The pin is very fragile. Depress the tan from the bottom of the latch plate, and the switch should rotate on the pin. Do not release the tab until the such has rotated past it. Now, you can lift the switch. 13. Reverse all of these steps with the new patch plate to put everything back together. You might want to test the microwave before reattaching it to the oven. 14. To put the oven back into the cavity, it's best to lean the back edge over the bottom of the cavity, then lift the oven from the front and slide it in.
