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Repaired Oven Range Light Bulb
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.
unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to make sure all worked AND IT DID!
Replcement of inner door glass which had shattered
Removed the door from the range, disassembled the door, removed all broken glass fragments, installed the new glass, reassembled the door and reinstalled the door into the range. Straightforward and easy. Keep track of which screws go where and it is a breeze.
Turn off circuit breaker Open oven remove two oven racks Position flash light Remove two Phillips head screws that hold the element in place Gently slide out element until you locate the two small wires Gently Detach the two small wires from the back of the burned out element Position the new element in the bottom of the oven and attach the two small wires to the back of the new element Gently slide the element back in place and replace the two Phillips screws that hold the element in place Make certain the new element is lying flat on the bottom of the oven Replace the two oven racks Turn on the circuit breakers and test the oven
Remove the lower bake element by removing the 2 retaining screws that secure the element to the inside oven back. Carefully slide the element out. There are 2 wires attached to the terminals of the element. While removing be careful to not pull the insulation out with the wiring. Attach the wires to the terminals of the new element and reinstall in reverse order.
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original. * Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer. * The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped. * So had to attend to where the wires were going. * Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45. b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions. c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it. d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s the inside-burner circuit.
1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the oven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.
Bottom oven quit heating about 6 mos. ago and now top oven quit. Broiler worked fine on both. Bought 1 replacement element to try. Did not work on either oven. Found online where someone had found a bad solder joint on a relay board so I pulled the oven and removed the covers. (WITH POWER OFF. I made a diagram of the wire connections to the board and removed it. I FOUND a cold solder joint on the L2 connection of the top oven board. I found the exact same cold solder joint on the bottom oven board also. After resoldering the connections and touching up any suspect joints I replaced the boards. They BOTH WORKED fine! Anyone that can't solder can take the boards to a local radio/TV repair shop and probably get the techincian to resolder it for a minimum fee. It is certainly worth the attempt.
