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Oven wouldn’t get up to temperature
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
Oven light stayed on & smelled like electrical burning.
Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven light switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.
While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power
1. Turn off power to the electric oven 2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet. 3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job. 4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge. 5. Unplugged sensor 6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front. 7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws. 8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor. 9. Replace the back and replace the screws. 10. Slide oven back into the wall. 11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame. 12. Turn power back on Check the temperature
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first
Oven would start to heat then quit,checked the temperature sensor with ohm meter after cool down reading about 1100 ohms. I cleaned connection tried it again seemed to work well but quit again in just few days.
Pulled range out from cabinet, removed back plate, two screws inside oven attaching the temp sensor. Then pulled the sensor and wire through from back. Reverse to replace about Ten minutes OEM parts plug in same, works great
Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws. Saved $150 on a service repair call.